After the hottest day of biking yet we ended up by Panghar Fort near Bijaipur where the enterprising Rao Singh has set up a tent hotel on the lake front. We had been following our guides Steve and Lily over arid hills covered in drystone walls and rural villages, temples and stone yards that had slices of stone cut like strips of timber. We were dripping with sweat in our bike gear despite leaping in a waterfall earlier, and saturating ourselves under all handy water pumps or taps. The lake, tents, showers and cold kingfisher beers were very welcome.
