how does one combine bracketed photos for HDR effect and is it worth it?

August 31st, 2014
I am going to start by confessing that i am not generally a fan of HDR images - a lot of the time i find the effect rather jarring. But i have seen some examples where it is relatively subtle, and i think results in an image that is better for having used HDR.

While i was travelling, i was having a hard time with exposure - we were mostly out and about in very brilliant harsh sun, and it was difficult to get an exposure that worked for both the land and the sky... so i experimented with the bracketing option available on my camera, and now i'm wondering what to do for post processing...

Do i need special software? or can i merge the photos in photoshop?

and is it worth it? i am wondering whether i could get just as good a result with careful use of lightroom? i suppose i won't know until i try, but i'd love to hear feedback on this!

tx!
August 31st, 2014
I use Photomatix Pro for my HDR shots. I typically merge about 10 images covering the full exposure range of the image. The results do not have to be "over the top". In fact, I prefer HDR images that are vivid but display true color and luminosity. I don't care for the cartoon effect or really garish effects I've seen in them. I also find HDR to be an excellent technique for high contrast black and white. Here's an example:



To answer the question on how, well I take a series of RAW images across the entire range of the scene. Photomatix Pro can process Canon Raw images, so I bring all of them directly into that software. I process the image for a color HDR version, using that software to produce a pleasing image. (Even if I'm doing b&w, I want the wide range of color tones available for that conversion.) Again, I'm looking for a natural look, not a garish look. I save that as a TIFF and bring the TIFF into PSE v10. For my black and white conversion, I use the Topaz B&W FX plug-in. The final adjustments - typically a levels adjustment, and possibly a sepia toned filter - are made back in PSE.

Is it worth it? I think so. If done correctly, HDR can produce some excellent images.
August 31st, 2014
I do a lot - you can either do it manually - and I can explain because I did it manually for ages, or you can use a free programme like Luminance - which has heavy versions and gentle versions within it. The first few are all using Luminance




And this last one I was really pushing it up


This https://www.flickr.com/photos/12323897@N04/7388687522 and a whole lot more were done manually
August 31st, 2014
I've done exactly the same thing with holiday photos. I was going to ask @Taffy for some advice about how to do it as I love her subtle HDR photos.
August 31st, 2014
I would recommend photomatix and I only have the entry level version which seems to be enough for not much money.I usually take 3 shots plus and minus 1 stop. Everything can be adjusted to avoid the grey painterly feel if you don't want that. You can loose some sharpness though if you don't use a tripod - tricky if you're out hiking. Graded filters woukd be even more tricky on the move though. And expensive as I'm just finding out!
August 31st, 2014
So this is from photomatix and hopefully not too full on!
August 31st, 2014
Merge to HDR in Photoshop if you have PS. Others already mentioned above. "Bad" HDR is not the fault of HDR process per se, just what seems to "come naturally" if you accept default processing parameters or purposely try for scary effects.

But really, with the latest Lightroom (5.3 is it?) take a single shot exposed for the highlights (so that the brightest pieces are not completely blown out, the shadows will be in deep shadow) and with "Process 2012" chosen in the Camera Calibrations, top control Process, go to the "basic" tab and adjust the tone sliders there, especially the "Shadows" slider pulled up, and see what you come up with. Unless your HDR multiple shot bracket covers more than 5 EV, HDR is not necessary. I would say pointless but then others would jump all over me I am sure :). Especially with a raw image from a good camera - and I know you have both an NEX and a new Canon - paired up with Lightroom/ACR Process 2012 will get you at least 90% there with next to no hassle at all.

You can actually go even further if you add in big Photoshop and process the image twice or three times and combine those efforts in Layers with masks, but that is for extra credit and Lightroom/ACR singly processed will get you 90% there most of the time.

And I know you love B/W a lot, and this technique works wonderfully there, especially if you add in custom greyscale mixes from the HSL/Greyscale tab, especially pulling contrast and clarity high.

You won't get the edge and glow effects some think of as HDR this way, but if you really want to get something like that, I seldom want that, go to the Detail tab, and pull the Sharpening, Radius and Detail sliders around, up to the right.

Finally, watch for any extra noise introduced with these rather drastic tone manipulations. You will possibly need a final dose of noise reduction, most often of the "color" variety, in the recovered shadows.

Both of the following two images were processed with these techniques.






All the best, and do try out these Lightroom techniques. They will get you 90% of the way at least with a lot less hassle than processing and especially shooting HDR brackets.
August 31st, 2014
If you right click them in Lightroom and choose 'edit in' then you can choose to 'merge them to HDR pro in Photoshop' it opens lots of lovely sliders to play with. I don't like HDR but knew you could merge them in photoshop so I just tried it out with two random images and played with them and now have a glorious piece of art! lol. I'll post it later.
September 1st, 2014
I followed the steps in this tutorial when I first started in photoshop as I wasnt happy with the HDR Merge function. This way you get select you highlights, midtones and pops of colour etc... hope the link works :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djxrsDT_6YU
September 1st, 2014
@rachelwithey Thanks Rachel. Mira, it's quite intuitive using programs like Silver HDR Efex (part of Nik Suite) or Photomatix. I used to use Silver more, and I've pretty much switched over to Photomatix. Both have a number of presets, but given your experience with processing, you'll pick up the sliders right away to reduce the comic book look and use it for creating natural images. I occasionally go with overprocessing like the reprocessing of the Rainbow Bridge that I posted yesterday -- the original was probably an HDR image, but looks more natural. @michaelelliott uses Photomatix and I think so does @pdulis. You can try both processing programs for free but they leave a watermark. At least yo could see how you like either one of them.
September 1st, 2014
Taffy has said what I would suggest. I tried photomatix pro for free and got feel of how images look. V easy to use. Then used other editing programmes to do other processing. It's v quick too. Much faster and easier than I thought. If you haveaalready shot bracketed images I would download the software and see what you think
September 1st, 2014
There are some reasonable, free HDR programs around; for instance SNS HDR. http://www.sns-hdr.com/ You will need to go to the top right of the first page and translate the website into English, download the product and follow the simple instructions.
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