I just started a job as lead photographer (exciting!!) except they have suggested I buy a speed light, as my first job will require it for a group shot.. indoors.. and they said it could come in handy later down the track anyway..
The company has already said they like their photographers to shoot in P & auto flash for the group shots to keep consistency, which is fantastic news for me but personally I would like to be able to confidently use the speed light in manual before just throwing it all into auto and never seeing for myself how it all works together.. & the best way for me to do that is practise practise practise, but I've no idea where to start, so I figured who better to ask for help than all my 365 friends :)
I have a lot of experience with lighting and speedlites... and I must say what you just told me about your new company freaks me out a little..
I am a pro event and portrait photographer along with an photography instructor, specializing in lighting and I can say with some level of confidence that what they are telling you and getting you to do is somewhat limiting.
Yes you need speedlites and in fact I carry a min of 4 of them in my back at all times but to shot in P is just plan wrong from my point of view... I know there are people on there that disagree with me but mine is taken from real world experience working in the field and on location for the last 5 years.
Yes the best way is to pratice pratice pratice but you need to understand what you are trying to practice for.
Do you have some images that you would like to aspire to that you would like to share?
It will give me some idea of where you want to go so I can give you some direction.
@agima So I have never actually shot with a flash except for when I first started playing around with my very first camera to make background blur by moving my camera then using back flash to freeze the subject, with the built in camera flash... and that is all I have ever done.. I have never used the flash again and never really had an interest in using it, as I manage really well in low light by changing the shutter/aperture/ISOs (& of course because I am not working towards someone else's idea of what the photo should look like) so I honestly don't really have a direction other than I was told to..
I am actually VERY surprised they hired me as lead photographer, as I had explained to them when they interviewed me that I was entirely self taught, so I think it also had to do with the amount of experience I have had working with kids and they liked all the kids shots in my portfolio. So for the portrait shots they have said manual manual manual but perhaps they only said the group shot with P and auto flash in my case because the shoot is coming up in one month and they don't want to risk me stuffing it up??
Anyway, I guess that's where I want to start.. illuminating the shot indoors, for kids wearing all black..? It is for tiny kids that move a lot.. they are graduating from daycare :)
@becpeterson Like Brendan, I am puzzled about the "company" and what you report about their preferences. "P" mode preferred? I wonder why? No pro that I know would operate that way. And to refer to a flash mode as "Auto" is, to say the least, quaint.
If I remember, you shoot with a Nikon D610? So you would be dealing with the Nikon iTTL (Intelligent Through the Lens) system, the Nikon Creative Lighting System (CLS) is a synonym. Your on-board flash could be a part of that system, probably best used as a "Commander" only to direct the operation of remote, off-camera flashes/strobes/speedlights.
There are a number of concepts that you should try to understand about flash photography in general and see how they apply to the D610. The David Busch book I talked about in another thread has a chapter all about "flash" and would be a good place to start to learn. Nikon have a superb Nikon School video "A Hands-on Guide to Creative Lighting." Here are a few topics to think about.
1. Flash exposure is controlled by only Aperture and ISO, not Shutter Speed.
2. Ambient light, background light, can enter into the exposure equation, and indeed can be controlled by all three, Aperture, ISO and Shutter.
3. The flash illumination field drops of rapidly with distance, an inverse square law. The power of the flash controls how "deep" this field can be. The maximum power of the flash is measured by something called a Guide Number, a distance (in feet or meters) for maximum reach of a putative f/1 lens aperture, at ISO 100.
4. Since aperture (f/stop) exposure is a "square" law too, half the f/stop number (twice the diameter, four times the area) and half the flash power will give you "equivalent" flash exposures.
5. The Flash "pulse" is of very shot duration. It varies by the "power setting" that is set, usually by the CLS system and the camera, sometimes manually. Something of the order of 1/10,000 second, way shorter than the shutter speed of the camera.
6. So you have to fit the timing of the pulse into the period of time the shutter is open, fully open. So the concept of "Flash Synch Mode" and "Synch Speed" are basic to understanding.
7. "Synch Speed" is the FASTEST shutter speed that you can use. This sounds in conflict with 3, the flash pulse being so fast, but to get an even illumination on the sensor of the camera you need the shutter fully open when the flash fires. Above the "Synch Speed" of the camera, a "travelling slit" travels across the shutter controlled by the "front" and "rear" curtains of the shutter. The shutter is never "fully open." The X-synch speed of your D610 is 1/200, and your shutter needs to be any speed slower. You can set the synch speed in Custom Settings | Bracketing/Flash (Section e).
8. More advanced cameras have a "fast synch speed" option where you can use shutter speed faster than the X-Synch speed. Here the camera orders the flash to fire multiple times to synchronize with the travelling slit. This can be exceptionally useful if you want to kill any traces of ambient light.
9. The Synch Mode of the camera controls when the flash fires with respect to the open shutter. "Normal" mode the flash will fire as soon as the shutter curtains are completely open. "Rear Curtain" mode the flash will fire at the very last moment the shutter is fully open. "Slow Synch" mode where the shutter is held open to get a proper exposure of the ambient light, which is, actually, the "Night Portrait" scene mode on the camera.
This might sound like a lot is going on. There is, and this is just flash operation. Brendan will set you artistic tasks to accomplish, different placement of multiple lights for portraits especially, but you really do need to understand all of this technical stuff if you want to get creative and not follow rote patterns.
While you can work out and manually set flash power, please don't. Trust the CLS.
The SB910 is the current top of the line Nikon strobe. You can buy used the SB900 for less which is practically the same animal. The SB700 is a fine strobe as well with a fine array of features. There are a number of "knock off" clones of Nikon Speedlights for 20% of the price. I have had good luck with the Meike MK910 for US$120 (versus $500+ for the SB9100). Others report different experiences.
@frankhymus@frankhymus I can defiantly not take a crash course in flash photography!! Sorry referring to the flash in "auto" was me..
They all shoot with canon and it's called something similar to iTTL but I can't remember, so I said auto for the purposes of thinking everyone would than understand? Like I said.. Self taught..
During training the owner said that he was going to add flash photography into the training manual and also set out some tasks for me to complete, so I have emailed him today to make sure he was going to send that off to me but I just wanted to get a head start, thinking I would gain some type of knowledge.. But what I have noticed is I feel very out of my depth, especially as I am not entirely up on ally camera lingo..
So are you saying after I understand how the speed light works in conjunction with the camera (which will take a while, seeing as it took me forever to get my head around ISO & set that manually) I should NOT manually adjust the settings on it??
@becpeterson eTTL for Canon I think, but it's the same idea.
Personally, I strongly recommend you trust the CLS/iTTL. By all means use the options and settings within that group of features, especially different flash compensation between different groups, it's not a rote task.
By all means experiment with other operation of the system, but in production, trust the technology, once you understand what it does for you.
And the sooner you off-camera the strobes the nicer will be your shots. The on-board flash will operate nicely in Commander mode, albeit only a Group A and a Group B (as well as the built-in if you really must). SB mounted CLS strobes will give you three remote groups. Truly, three is about "standard" for studio work, a key light off to one side, a background light if the backdrop is interesting, and it can separate the subject from that background, and perhaps a highlight light, directly on the hair, especially of the long hair of women to get all the nice highlights there. And a few reflectors scattered around, one opposite the key light is common.
Have fun and the best of luck with your new associations...
@frankhymus Thanks Frank :) so I actually forgot I mention they don't normally do indoor shoots, it is all outdoors using natural light, but on this occasion the daycare centre has hired a hall and requested the group shot be taken inside.. I also only use natural light when photographing and it is highly unlikely I will use the flash wirelessly, let alone 3; however you can never learn enough and understanding (trying) flash photography would just be an added bonus, especially as the situation is bound to arise on more than one occasion!! Frank you are worth you weight in gold!!
Last week on Creative Live there was a 3 day training course by Scott Robert Lim which I highly recommend. he teaches mixing & controling ambient & flash lighting so it looks very natural. https://www.creativelive.com/instructor/scott-robert-lim
@becpeterson I looked at your website ( wow such great work!!) & while much of Scott's portfolio work is editorial, as a natural light shooter, I think his basic approach to flash use would sit really well with your style. Try http://www.youtube.com/user/scottrobert. I am working on my off camera strobe setups too - so I would be more than happy to tackle some tasks & compare notes with you. :)
@ltodd Aww thanks so flattering :) I actually LOVE your photography & the way you have captured gorgeous tones and lighting, especially those autumn leaves - stunning!!
Actually eventually I would LOVE to get into editorials.. Still practicing and I know I'm not there yet, but that's where I want to go.. Fashion and Weddings :) Unfortunately (but fortunately in the way of getting steady paid work) for the moment I am with a kids photography company that is waaaaay off my style, but still beautiful because it's kids :)
By the way the link you had up doesn't work, but I will goggle him & see what I can find, thanks :)
I'm so silly, I didn't realise that it was the same link as what I had already watched, haha. Yes this guy is amazing!! I just went to his website and absolutely love his story, what a hero. Thank-you @ltodd
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Where do I start... :)
I have a lot of experience with lighting and speedlites... and I must say what you just told me about your new company freaks me out a little..
I am a pro event and portrait photographer along with an photography instructor, specializing in lighting and I can say with some level of confidence that what they are telling you and getting you to do is somewhat limiting.
Yes you need speedlites and in fact I carry a min of 4 of them in my back at all times but to shot in P is just plan wrong from my point of view... I know there are people on there that disagree with me but mine is taken from real world experience working in the field and on location for the last 5 years.
Yes the best way is to pratice pratice pratice but you need to understand what you are trying to practice for.
Do you have some images that you would like to aspire to that you would like to share?
It will give me some idea of where you want to go so I can give you some direction.
I am actually VERY surprised they hired me as lead photographer, as I had explained to them when they interviewed me that I was entirely self taught, so I think it also had to do with the amount of experience I have had working with kids and they liked all the kids shots in my portfolio. So for the portrait shots they have said manual manual manual but perhaps they only said the group shot with P and auto flash in my case because the shoot is coming up in one month and they don't want to risk me stuffing it up??
Anyway, I guess that's where I want to start.. illuminating the shot indoors, for kids wearing all black..? It is for tiny kids that move a lot.. they are graduating from daycare :)
I feel this will be a long and extended conversation so direct contact is better for me as my time is very limited
If I remember, you shoot with a Nikon D610? So you would be dealing with the Nikon iTTL (Intelligent Through the Lens) system, the Nikon Creative Lighting System (CLS) is a synonym. Your on-board flash could be a part of that system, probably best used as a "Commander" only to direct the operation of remote, off-camera flashes/strobes/speedlights.
There are a number of concepts that you should try to understand about flash photography in general and see how they apply to the D610. The David Busch book I talked about in another thread has a chapter all about "flash" and would be a good place to start to learn. Nikon have a superb Nikon School video "A Hands-on Guide to Creative Lighting." Here are a few topics to think about.
1. Flash exposure is controlled by only Aperture and ISO, not Shutter Speed.
2. Ambient light, background light, can enter into the exposure equation, and indeed can be controlled by all three, Aperture, ISO and Shutter.
3. The flash illumination field drops of rapidly with distance, an inverse square law. The power of the flash controls how "deep" this field can be. The maximum power of the flash is measured by something called a Guide Number, a distance (in feet or meters) for maximum reach of a putative f/1 lens aperture, at ISO 100.
4. Since aperture (f/stop) exposure is a "square" law too, half the f/stop number (twice the diameter, four times the area) and half the flash power will give you "equivalent" flash exposures.
5. The Flash "pulse" is of very shot duration. It varies by the "power setting" that is set, usually by the CLS system and the camera, sometimes manually. Something of the order of 1/10,000 second, way shorter than the shutter speed of the camera.
6. So you have to fit the timing of the pulse into the period of time the shutter is open, fully open. So the concept of "Flash Synch Mode" and "Synch Speed" are basic to understanding.
7. "Synch Speed" is the FASTEST shutter speed that you can use. This sounds in conflict with 3, the flash pulse being so fast, but to get an even illumination on the sensor of the camera you need the shutter fully open when the flash fires. Above the "Synch Speed" of the camera, a "travelling slit" travels across the shutter controlled by the "front" and "rear" curtains of the shutter. The shutter is never "fully open." The X-synch speed of your D610 is 1/200, and your shutter needs to be any speed slower. You can set the synch speed in Custom Settings | Bracketing/Flash (Section e).
8. More advanced cameras have a "fast synch speed" option where you can use shutter speed faster than the X-Synch speed. Here the camera orders the flash to fire multiple times to synchronize with the travelling slit. This can be exceptionally useful if you want to kill any traces of ambient light.
9. The Synch Mode of the camera controls when the flash fires with respect to the open shutter. "Normal" mode the flash will fire as soon as the shutter curtains are completely open. "Rear Curtain" mode the flash will fire at the very last moment the shutter is fully open. "Slow Synch" mode where the shutter is held open to get a proper exposure of the ambient light, which is, actually, the "Night Portrait" scene mode on the camera.
This might sound like a lot is going on. There is, and this is just flash operation. Brendan will set you artistic tasks to accomplish, different placement of multiple lights for portraits especially, but you really do need to understand all of this technical stuff if you want to get creative and not follow rote patterns.
While you can work out and manually set flash power, please don't. Trust the CLS.
The SB910 is the current top of the line Nikon strobe. You can buy used the SB900 for less which is practically the same animal. The SB700 is a fine strobe as well with a fine array of features. There are a number of "knock off" clones of Nikon Speedlights for 20% of the price. I have had good luck with the Meike MK910 for US$120 (versus $500+ for the SB9100). Others report different experiences.
They all shoot with canon and it's called something similar to iTTL but I can't remember, so I said auto for the purposes of thinking everyone would than understand? Like I said.. Self taught..
During training the owner said that he was going to add flash photography into the training manual and also set out some tasks for me to complete, so I have emailed him today to make sure he was going to send that off to me but I just wanted to get a head start, thinking I would gain some type of knowledge.. But what I have noticed is I feel very out of my depth, especially as I am not entirely up on ally camera lingo..
So are you saying after I understand how the speed light works in conjunction with the camera (which will take a while, seeing as it took me forever to get my head around ISO & set that manually) I should NOT manually adjust the settings on it??
Personally, I strongly recommend you trust the CLS/iTTL. By all means use the options and settings within that group of features, especially different flash compensation between different groups, it's not a rote task.
By all means experiment with other operation of the system, but in production, trust the technology, once you understand what it does for you.
And the sooner you off-camera the strobes the nicer will be your shots. The on-board flash will operate nicely in Commander mode, albeit only a Group A and a Group B (as well as the built-in if you really must). SB mounted CLS strobes will give you three remote groups. Truly, three is about "standard" for studio work, a key light off to one side, a background light if the backdrop is interesting, and it can separate the subject from that background, and perhaps a highlight light, directly on the hair, especially of the long hair of women to get all the nice highlights there. And a few reflectors scattered around, one opposite the key light is common.
Have fun and the best of luck with your new associations...
@becpeterson Yes ETTL is the way to go. It can muck you around a little but for moving targets i always use ETTL i.e. at events, wedding, etc
Actually eventually I would LOVE to get into editorials.. Still practicing and I know I'm not there yet, but that's where I want to go.. Fashion and Weddings :) Unfortunately (but fortunately in the way of getting steady paid work) for the moment I am with a kids photography company that is waaaaay off my style, but still beautiful because it's kids :)
By the way the link you had up doesn't work, but I will goggle him & see what I can find, thanks :)