(The information below was copied from a previous camera challenge that Brendan Maunder @agima put together so well)
Do some of the camera settings intimidate you? Do you want to learn how to develop your photography skills and learn how to use your camera effectively without always going back to the “auto” function? These challenges are for you!
These are designed for those experienced photographers to share their knowledge with others who are anxious to learn and improve their skills. This
fortnight's challenge is ..
FEC - Flash Exposure Compensation & Fill Flash
Explanation:
What is FEC you ask.....
FEC gives you the ability to change how much exposure your flash has in an image.
Still confused???? Let me put it another way.... You know when you take a photo with your flash and then you look at the image and see that the subject is way over bright? This is where FEC comes into play... What you do is you dial down your FEC so the effects of the flash is reduced.
You can also do this the other way.... If you take a picture and the flash is not bright enough you can wind up the FEC.
Now here is the disclaimer - While most cameras will have FEC some do not. Some camera have the on the dials, while other have it in the menus. Your first task will be to see if your camera does have it and where/how it can be adjusted.
Once you figure that out you will generally see it represented in numbers like -2 -1 0 +1 +2. The number represent stops. So if you wanted to put 1 extra stop of light into the image you would dial it up to +1 and if you wanted to reduce the light by 2 stops you would dial it down to -2...
Clear as mud?
Now on with the real challenge.
You have to use that flash and the FEC so that while you may have used flash it is not obvious in the photo. What do I mean by this???
If you take a photo of someone outdoors your flash should be used to fill the dark areas so that they have enough light so the image still looks natural.
Confused?
Here is an example....
No Flash
Some Fill Flash
MORE EXAMPLES ARE COMING SOON!
COMING SOON
COMING SOON
Few Tips (optional):
For this challenge you can use your camera’s built in flash or an external flash attached to your camera.
Start with you FEC on 0 then take a photo, Change your FEC to -2 and take a photo, then change it to +2 and take another photo. Have a look how it affected the image.
When trying to fill in the shadows it will work best that your subject does not have a background... Why??? Its because in the photo you will see the effects of the flash and a shadow on the background. For example you would take a photo of someone on a sunset, with the sunset behind them but you wouldn't take a photo with someone standing a meter off a wall.
Another important tip - Keep your camera in Shutter priority mode and at something around 1/60 or 1/100 of a second. Don't put it in manual mode for this one as it works differently on different cameras so just to keep it simple Shutter priority mode is the way to go.
Few links to learn from:
EXCELLENT LINK – READ THIS!
http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/8-flash-exposure-comp/
AND READ THIS!
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-flash-2.htm
Happy to help out people if they are having issues on this subject. Just tag me in the comments of your image, along with a question. or tag me here in the comments with the question and I will come along and see how I can help.
@agima Please keep watching this feed and feel free to comment. I've seen your work and very talented. Thank you for allowing us to re-use this material. Do you have any examples we can use for the different flash exposures? Also I'm looking for a link to add on the topic of your shutter speed being set too high when using flash.
Thanks,
@whimsicalgrateful so glad you are going to join us!! There really is a LOT to learn on flash and we will be covering it several weeks. After this series we will cover the sync modes as well.
Thanks for continuing to send these themes. I need to get back in the swing! I saved the links to the other ones, so I could practice the many I missed.
@myhrhelper@frankhymus opened my eyes to rear curtain sync. I have not tried it yet, but definitely in my list of things to explore this year. Thank you.
@myhrhelper
Thanks for reminder. I've been travelling a bit lately and missed this last challenge. I haven't used my flash a lot because it always seems to bright, so this should definitely help me.
Are we talking about using the 'on-camera' flash?
@deborah63 Yes, cutting down the flash power is a superb idea to take the harshness off the flash.. And yes, on-camera/built-in will operate OK especially at low power (Flash Compensation as mentioned above).
You can do some simple things to diffuse the harsh light of the small built in flash light. Something as simple as holding a sheet of white paper over the flash. Or you can get (inexpensive and small) light box like attachments. Something like the Lumiquest Soft Screen for $12 or so from B&H Photo, which fits over our camera flash, attaches simply and securely and works nicely for me.
Off-camera/dedicated flash of course will work too...
@myhrhelper Thanks for the tag Kathy. I won't be doing this one- just swamped with a number of things right now and the Hang It All challenge is taking precedence. But I have to say you and the team have been doing a great job on them!
Just wanted to chime in to say a very heartfelt "Thank You!" for these Camera Settings Challenges. The challenges and the comment threads have helped me a lot! I don't usually post my results because they generally aren't what I want to use for my photo of the day ...but I am slowly plodding along and believe that my photography is improving! Until reading this, I didn't even realize that my camera had FEC; now I've been outdoors playing with it in the light of my porch lights!
Thanks for info Frank... I have some questions.
I've just opened up flash function and I'm not sure what must of it means.. Help please.
Firing Mode: TTL or Manual
Flash Mode: 4 different settings !!!!!
Flash Syncro: 1st or 2nd
Flash Adjust... Ok I understand this one now.
Auto Exposure Comp: on or off
I don't have my manual with me ATM, but will try and google it!! @frankhymus
@deborah63 We'll go into some of these next week. BTW, what camera do you have? I don't recognize some of the terms although I think I know what they mean. Manufacturers seem to love using "unique to them" terms. Here's a taste.
TTL = Through the Lens. The camera and the flash cooperate to determine the "right" flash power level. You can then use "Flash Compensation" to adjust that further.
Manual = Just that. You set your own power level, usually as a fraction of full power. Usually from 1/1 (full power) down to 1/128 (or more).
Flash Syncro. The flash in "standard" operation must fire when the shutter is fully open. First = It fires as soon as the shutter is fully open. Second = it fires at the last possible moment just as the shutter is beginning to close down. Sometimes also called Front Curtain and Rear Curtain. More as to why the terms and what the devil the fuss is about next week.
Auto Exposure Comp. Does Exposure Compensation adjust just on the "ambient light" exposure, usually the background, or is flash power also adjusted as well. This is in addition to any "Flash Compensation/Adjust" you might have added, or subtracted. Possible to do one and not the other, since shorter or longer shutter doesn't affect the flash expose, but it does affect the "ambient" or "continuous" light exposure, just as always.
Flash Mode. One of them will be called something like "Slow Synch" where the shutter will be slowed to give more weight to the darker background that is not lit by the flash. If your camera has an effects or auto mode, one choice will be called something like "Night Portrait" which does exactly this automatically as the camera chooses.
Complicated and confusing? Well, the whole story can be, that's why we are taking it in steps. Even when we get through next fortnight we still will have just scratched the surface. Whole books have been written on the subject. But our cameras are so very smart that basic operation can be automated and still you can take decent shots, just diving under the covers as you learn more. Sort of like Shooting in AUTO, and then exploring A and S, and then M for normal "ambient" or "continuous" lighting.
thank you - just took some shots at night, first time in a very long time that i actually used my flash, this will be so helpful. i don't have an external flash, just the one in my camera. @myhrhelper
@myhrhelper Yes sorry, will be there, just out of time. Appreciate all the help in the challenge. I took some shots on the White balance challenge but didn't manage to post them.
@myhrhelper If the weather will cooperate, I am hoping to get some shots in this weekend. Have been in a month long class which has taking much of my time, so not able to participate as much as I would like. Thanks, for all your time in organizing and posting these challenges.
Top photo +1 FEV
Centre photo 0 FEV
Bottom photo - FEV
The + 1 FEV is noticably lighter than the 0 FEV and not so much difference between the 0 and -1 FEV.
Well done!! What I notice is when you look at the green leaves - see the white shine on the top photo? When you look at the middle and especially at the bottom photo the light is less harsh and does make a nice fill flash. Some subjects are more noticeable than others. Although many people don't mind seeing the light streaks on the leaves if this was a face it would not be as acceptable. Great experiment. I recommend now select a completely different subject and see what happens. Is there a person that would pose for you?
@myhrhelper Hi Kathy...I looked through my manual to find FEC. I have been practising inside my house on any items with my Canon 700D this morning (nothing worthy to upload as yet). I really like the darker option - reduce the light. Just have to remind myself to return back to zero. Practising more outside in the late afternoon.
This is my photo for the Camera Savvy Flash Exposure Compensation Challenge. Top Left is with No Flash, Top Right is with Flash set at 0 Compensation. Bottom Left is Flash -1 & Bottom Right is Flash +2.
The Flash +2 was too harsh.
Interestingly I found that depending on which part of the picture you looked at depended on which FCE you would choose.
If I had been choosing only for the gnome I would choose between the 0 or +1. But since I am choosing for the whole shot I would choose either 0 or -1, my preference leaning more to -1.
So from this challenge I learnt that the FCE would depend on whether you wanted to expose for just the subject or the whole picture overall.
This 5.6 Flash compensation +2.
I am not quite sure why I managed to change the F stop in last two shots. I took lots of photos and I also used the ordinary exposure compensation when I got some blown out flowers, along with the flash compensation. I would have liked a real person but no volunteers! I liked the original shot but I think in all the shots the minus compensation worked well but needed adjusting to get it to the right level. I didn't know about this function on camera so good learning curve.
@myhrhelper I tagged the original shots in my project with this tag. I couldn't see a camera savvy tag as usual in the above unless I missed it. So have just posted them here. Thanks for all your help.
@jennymallett Oh I love these examples. for sure the +2 makes the whites too blown out and without flash while it is good it still could be better with just a little more lighting. I think zero looks the best in this example but -1 is good and you could make some additional post processing as well.
@jennywren great examples for sure. Obviously at F5.6 the FEC at +2 is a little bit too bright since the whites is blown out and you can't see the details of the women statue. The middle shot has nice lighting and the little fill flash just added a little more - I like this one. The top at F7.1 you must have really either had the ISO up or the flash brighter - I Another adjustment is to speed up the shutter speed a bit from 1/80 to perhaps 1/125 it seems pretty close.
Love this example - it is hard when you can't get anyone to volunteer and not everyone is going to feel comfortable going up to a stranger lol
Hi Kathy many thanks for comments. I checked back on settings and only had iso at 100 or 200 and the shutter speed was constant. However I did a lot of taking and juggling so maybe something went astray. Hope to try some more with a face.
Shot at 48mm f/13 1/200 I decided to experiment with the exposure compensation today. This was my final shot (of approximately 100!). Here's what I learned. I do not like the effect of the built in flash on my camera. The first 50-60 shots were with that flash. But it was too harsh even with the compensation. I felt that when I toned it down it lost the beautiful soft colors. So I broke out my speed light. This was much better. I know I really got off track from this challenge but I just got determined to get the light the way I envisioned it. I still feel lost in trying to set the parameters but by playing around with them all, I at least have a decent understanding about how exposure comp works! Glad we are going to be working on flash for a while! I hardly ever use it and now I remember why....I'm lost! :) @myhrhelper@camerasavvy
Yes, the built-in flash light is not optimal,, to say the least. You can improve the quality by diffusing it over a larger surface as it leaves the flash.
1. Hold a clean sheet of white paper over the flash and fire through it.
2. Simple soft boxes are available for built-in flashes. Something like a Lumiquest Soft Screen from B&H Photo for US$15 functions quite well, although nothing like to be expected from a Speedlight off the camera and firing though a regular size soft box or umbrella.
3. You can improve (warm up) the color of any flash by adding a mild orange gel (translucent colored sheet) over the flash head. Something like a 1/4 cut CTO. A sheet will cost you $5 from B&H, but you'll only need a small piece taped to your light. This works quite well for portraits too.
But yes, if you are serious about flash, a Speedlight and especially off camera and with remote triggering so the light isn't firing directly down the axis of the lens is essential for professional looking results.
@cdean1956 I would suspect -1 or -2/3 would work well. It would take the edge off the 0, and yet not drive the darks as black as the -2. Editing up shadows from heavy dark can be problematic sometimes, inducing speckle-like noise from the randomness of detail in very dark tones. Adding to my thoughts when I commented in your album.
Thanks for adding the shot here.
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Happy to help out people if they are having issues on this subject. Just tag me in the comments of your image, along with a question. or tag me here in the comments with the question and I will come along and see how I can help.
Thanks,
Just checking if anyone is going to participate in this challenge?
Thanks for reminder. I've been travelling a bit lately and missed this last challenge. I haven't used my flash a lot because it always seems to bright, so this should definitely help me.
Are we talking about using the 'on-camera' flash?
You can do some simple things to diffuse the harsh light of the small built in flash light. Something as simple as holding a sheet of white paper over the flash. Or you can get (inexpensive and small) light box like attachments. Something like the Lumiquest Soft Screen for $12 or so from B&H Photo, which fits over our camera flash, attaches simply and securely and works nicely for me.
Off-camera/dedicated flash of course will work too...
I've just opened up flash function and I'm not sure what must of it means.. Help please.
Firing Mode: TTL or Manual
Flash Mode: 4 different settings !!!!!
Flash Syncro: 1st or 2nd
Flash Adjust... Ok I understand this one now.
Auto Exposure Comp: on or off
I don't have my manual with me ATM, but will try and google it!!
@frankhymus
TTL = Through the Lens. The camera and the flash cooperate to determine the "right" flash power level. You can then use "Flash Compensation" to adjust that further.
Manual = Just that. You set your own power level, usually as a fraction of full power. Usually from 1/1 (full power) down to 1/128 (or more).
Flash Syncro. The flash in "standard" operation must fire when the shutter is fully open. First = It fires as soon as the shutter is fully open. Second = it fires at the last possible moment just as the shutter is beginning to close down. Sometimes also called Front Curtain and Rear Curtain. More as to why the terms and what the devil the fuss is about next week.
Auto Exposure Comp. Does Exposure Compensation adjust just on the "ambient light" exposure, usually the background, or is flash power also adjusted as well. This is in addition to any "Flash Compensation/Adjust" you might have added, or subtracted. Possible to do one and not the other, since shorter or longer shutter doesn't affect the flash expose, but it does affect the "ambient" or "continuous" light exposure, just as always.
Flash Mode. One of them will be called something like "Slow Synch" where the shutter will be slowed to give more weight to the darker background that is not lit by the flash. If your camera has an effects or auto mode, one choice will be called something like "Night Portrait" which does exactly this automatically as the camera chooses.
Complicated and confusing? Well, the whole story can be, that's why we are taking it in steps. Even when we get through next fortnight we still will have just scratched the surface. Whole books have been written on the subject. But our cameras are so very smart that basic operation can be automated and still you can take decent shots, just diving under the covers as you learn more. Sort of like Shooting in AUTO, and then exploring A and S, and then M for normal "ambient" or "continuous" lighting.
Hope I haven't driven you away... :)
@myhrhelper
@jennywren When you post tag me if you could
Top photo +1 FEV
Centre photo 0 FEV
Bottom photo - FEV
The + 1 FEV is noticably lighter than the 0 FEV and not so much difference between the 0 and -1 FEV.
I didn't know that the flash had a Exposure Compensation so thanks for the new knowledge. I will hunt down a face and compare the difference...
This is my photo for the Camera Savvy Flash Exposure Compensation Challenge. Top Left is with No Flash, Top Right is with Flash set at 0 Compensation. Bottom Left is Flash -1 & Bottom Right is Flash +2.
The Flash +2 was too harsh.
Interestingly I found that depending on which part of the picture you looked at depended on which FCE you would choose.
If I had been choosing only for the gnome I would choose between the 0 or +1. But since I am choosing for the whole shot I would choose either 0 or -1, my preference leaning more to -1.
So from this challenge I learnt that the FCE would depend on whether you wanted to expose for just the subject or the whole picture overall.
Original shot. All shots at Iso 100, FL 100mm, 180Sec, TV priority
This F 7.1
This F 7.1 with Fill Flash
This F5.6 Flash compensation -1 1/3
This 5.6 Flash compensation +2.
I am not quite sure why I managed to change the F stop in last two shots. I took lots of photos and I also used the ordinary exposure compensation when I got some blown out flowers, along with the flash compensation. I would have liked a real person but no volunteers! I liked the original shot but I think in all the shots the minus compensation worked well but needed adjusting to get it to the right level. I didn't know about this function on camera so good learning curve.
Love this example - it is hard when you can't get anyone to volunteer and not everyone is going to feel comfortable going up to a stranger lol
Shot at 48mm f/13 1/200 I decided to experiment with the exposure compensation today. This was my final shot (of approximately 100!). Here's what I learned. I do not like the effect of the built in flash on my camera. The first 50-60 shots were with that flash. But it was too harsh even with the compensation. I felt that when I toned it down it lost the beautiful soft colors. So I broke out my speed light. This was much better. I know I really got off track from this challenge but I just got determined to get the light the way I envisioned it. I still feel lost in trying to set the parameters but by playing around with them all, I at least have a decent understanding about how exposure comp works! Glad we are going to be working on flash for a while! I hardly ever use it and now I remember why....I'm lost! :) @myhrhelper @camerasavvy
Yes, the built-in flash light is not optimal,, to say the least. You can improve the quality by diffusing it over a larger surface as it leaves the flash.
1. Hold a clean sheet of white paper over the flash and fire through it.
2. Simple soft boxes are available for built-in flashes. Something like a Lumiquest Soft Screen from B&H Photo for US$15 functions quite well, although nothing like to be expected from a Speedlight off the camera and firing though a regular size soft box or umbrella.
3. You can improve (warm up) the color of any flash by adding a mild orange gel (translucent colored sheet) over the flash head. Something like a 1/4 cut CTO. A sheet will cost you $5 from B&H, but you'll only need a small piece taped to your light. This works quite well for portraits too.
But yes, if you are serious about flash, a Speedlight and especially off camera and with remote triggering so the light isn't firing directly down the axis of the lens is essential for professional looking results.
I took another one at -2/3 which I personally liked better
Thanks for adding the shot here.