Is there anyone out here who knows the theories and FEC inside and out who I can link in with?
I'm heading back up there June 23 for another three weeks work and want to 'be all over it' by then.
I don't get the strobist 101 site but can understand Neil van Neikerk ( http://neilvn.com/) but talking and sharing with a real person is so much better.
@gurry just using FEC for fill against/in harsh light, sunsets, azure water, shade locations (under jetty with full sun in background). See last image as example. Need 'expert' to CC and guide if not doing it correctly and a quick set of rules to memorise for the elusive and highly variable technique.
Cool I have had a look at your photo and I have a couple of comments:
The image to me looks way to flat, this is because you have the speedlite on top of the camera. You should move the flash off the camera to give some direction and depth to the image.
I would also use and omni bounce over the end of your flash to defuse the light somewhat. Just not that you will lose around 1 stop of light.
The subject looks correctly exposed and the background is nicely darkened.
I am not a fan of the composition but I guess that is another subject. :)
What is it that you want to understand about FEC?
The use of FEC is very subjective as it will be determined of what the photographer is trying to achieve.
For example you can stop meter off the persons face and use ETTL and the face will be exposed correctly, now if you want less fill then you would wind down the FEC, if you want more then you wind it up.
The subject in this image also looks a little neutral in colour where some extra warmth by using maybe 1/2-1full cut CTO would change that.
Here is what I do.
I set the camera in AV, then stop meter the sky. Get the shutter and ISO reading.
Switch to manual, the dial in the settings, except then under expose the background by around 1-2 stops. I do this by changing the shutter speed. I would do this on the ISO if I was able to but normally in this situation the ISO is at 100 already.
NOTE: depending if you have high speed sync will depend on how fast you can go with your shutter speed. If using speedlites turn on hi speed sync, if using studio strobes then you are limited to 1/200 so you will have to adjust your other setting
Now spot off the eye of your subject and take your shot with flash on. From here you should have a image that is close to what you want.
here is where its up to the image you want to take. You can adjust your shutter to darken or lighten the background, or change your FEC to put more light on the subject, or adjust your aperture and ISO.
ETTL makes it easy to get a good image with little work, so unless you are taking setup photos (i.e. photoshoots with models/subjects that done move) stick with ETTL.
@agima cheers ... but my issue is on these shoots I only have 30min to get the images ...
Using 5D classic or 5DMk II with YN565EX (no HSS) and 24-105 or 70-200 (f2.8)
YES on camera as the units are too heavy for me to hold and then hold the flash off camera. I shake enough as it is.
I'll read what you've said and heading to Brunswick Heads on the weekend so will practise with friends children. Are you open to further email contact to 'train my brain' that has been totally fried with all lighting subjects?
@misschuff sure happy to help out and answer/bounce ideas off.
One thing I forgot to mention is the use of Fel (flash exposure lock) when you meter the face you can lock the flash exposure to that part and it will adjust the fash to match.
I don't know how the yn565ex work,but I would suspect that it isn't that much different.
I know what you are saying about holding the heavy camera and holding a flash.... It just doesn't happen.
Just about always carry a light stand or tripod so I can mount the strobes away from the camera.
The good thing about using a tripod and manual flash settings is that once you dial it in you can move where ever you like and the image will be correctly exposed as long as the subject doesn't change their distance from the flash.
I must say not having hss is a pain in bright light. You don't have many options other then to stop down but then you need more power from you flash.
@agima in the ideal world your advice is great but the real world of the job on the islands is not so ... it's 30 - 45 min of walking to different locations, taking pix with sunset (other locations icons) then walking back. In one day I did 6 portrait sessions and walked about 10km with my gear (two camera's + flash) and did the regular activities too. I'll take the softbox for a YN565 next time and attempt but knowing the routine, not keen on it. Thus having to make the best with on camera. Will trial your suggestions this w/e though.
@misschuff I know what you are saying most of my work is photos at outdoor events and generally over vast spaces (horse events). I have just spent a week or so out photographing such an event from dusk till dawn and beyond. Walking nearly all day as I chased the action.
Get yourself a good backpack that takes a tri-pod. A light tripod weighs maybe 1kg so it isn't much, especially when it straps to your back.
It is all about what you capable of carrying how fast you can set-up when on location and they type of images you want to take.
I would suggest that if you are unable to move the flash off then a softbox is pointless (that is using the assumption that you don't have a background that the light will hit) as the image will look flat no matter if you have a softbox of not.
It also comes down to the types of image you want to take. If you want flat images then leave the flash on camera, if you want depth and dimension then you need to do what you need to do to get that image.
From what I can tell from your description of your location shooting I would carry:
2 x camera bodies
6 x media cards
4 x lens
2 x 580exII
1 x remote flash trigger
16 x aa batteries
1 x long ETTL cord
2 x omni bounce cards
2 x colour corrections kits.
Maybe a reflector.
1 x light stand
Now having said that I walk all day long with many KG on my back, but that is just me.
The set-up for these types of shots should only take you around 4-8 frames or only a couple of minutes and to whack out a tripod and put a light on it should only take a minute more.
Tweets ahoy!
Join the Group
Pin With Me
The image to me looks way to flat, this is because you have the speedlite on top of the camera. You should move the flash off the camera to give some direction and depth to the image.
I would also use and omni bounce over the end of your flash to defuse the light somewhat. Just not that you will lose around 1 stop of light.
The subject looks correctly exposed and the background is nicely darkened.
I am not a fan of the composition but I guess that is another subject. :)
What is it that you want to understand about FEC?
The use of FEC is very subjective as it will be determined of what the photographer is trying to achieve.
For example you can stop meter off the persons face and use ETTL and the face will be exposed correctly, now if you want less fill then you would wind down the FEC, if you want more then you wind it up.
The subject in this image also looks a little neutral in colour where some extra warmth by using maybe 1/2-1full cut CTO would change that.
Here is what I do.
I set the camera in AV, then stop meter the sky. Get the shutter and ISO reading.
Switch to manual, the dial in the settings, except then under expose the background by around 1-2 stops. I do this by changing the shutter speed. I would do this on the ISO if I was able to but normally in this situation the ISO is at 100 already.
NOTE: depending if you have high speed sync will depend on how fast you can go with your shutter speed. If using speedlites turn on hi speed sync, if using studio strobes then you are limited to 1/200 so you will have to adjust your other setting
Now spot off the eye of your subject and take your shot with flash on. From here you should have a image that is close to what you want.
here is where its up to the image you want to take. You can adjust your shutter to darken or lighten the background, or change your FEC to put more light on the subject, or adjust your aperture and ISO.
ETTL makes it easy to get a good image with little work, so unless you are taking setup photos (i.e. photoshoots with models/subjects that done move) stick with ETTL.
Does that help?
Using 5D classic or 5DMk II with YN565EX (no HSS) and 24-105 or 70-200 (f2.8)
YES on camera as the units are too heavy for me to hold and then hold the flash off camera. I shake enough as it is.
I'll read what you've said and heading to Brunswick Heads on the weekend so will practise with friends children. Are you open to further email contact to 'train my brain' that has been totally fried with all lighting subjects?
Cheers,
One thing I forgot to mention is the use of Fel (flash exposure lock) when you meter the face you can lock the flash exposure to that part and it will adjust the fash to match.
I don't know how the yn565ex work,but I would suspect that it isn't that much different.
Just about always carry a light stand or tripod so I can mount the strobes away from the camera.
The good thing about using a tripod and manual flash settings is that once you dial it in you can move where ever you like and the image will be correctly exposed as long as the subject doesn't change their distance from the flash.
I must say not having hss is a pain in bright light. You don't have many options other then to stop down but then you need more power from you flash.
Get yourself a good backpack that takes a tri-pod. A light tripod weighs maybe 1kg so it isn't much, especially when it straps to your back.
It is all about what you capable of carrying how fast you can set-up when on location and they type of images you want to take.
I would suggest that if you are unable to move the flash off then a softbox is pointless (that is using the assumption that you don't have a background that the light will hit) as the image will look flat no matter if you have a softbox of not.
It also comes down to the types of image you want to take. If you want flat images then leave the flash on camera, if you want depth and dimension then you need to do what you need to do to get that image.
From what I can tell from your description of your location shooting I would carry:
2 x camera bodies
6 x media cards
4 x lens
2 x 580exII
1 x remote flash trigger
16 x aa batteries
1 x long ETTL cord
2 x omni bounce cards
2 x colour corrections kits.
Maybe a reflector.
1 x light stand
Now having said that I walk all day long with many KG on my back, but that is just me.
The set-up for these types of shots should only take you around 4-8 frames or only a couple of minutes and to whack out a tripod and put a light on it should only take a minute more.
Is safe to say you don't have an assistant?