Today we should have been on our way to the Solomon Islands but cyclone Raquel made us change our plans and we spent the morning in the Garove Island caldera -a huge 5km wide volcanic crater. Local residents from around the rim rowed out to see what we were doing and what we had to offer. I saw these canoes all over PNG and was mesmerised by them. Young and old, men, women and children handle them with the same ease we handle a car and each is so individual. It was a glorious morning warm sunshine, millpond waters and so much to see. The camera zoom was working on overload.