I have been getting some unwanted reflections in my night time shots. Any idea how to prevent them?? Here the street lamp is being reflected up near the roof line. Normally I can remove them is photoshop, but this time it was not working, so I reluctantly left it in. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I will bet a doughnut you are using a lens filter? ie UV or other wise? This is lens flare from the light source... an SMC coating would stop that... but that would mean shooting pentax and who would do that... if not it could be a reflection at the back side of the lens mount (internal reflections) but really it looks like a filter flare...
@icywarm@vikdaddy Jordan nailed it. These are called "aberrations" or "ghosting". It's caused by light shifting direction ever so slightly as it passes through a filter and then hits your lens.
The best way to fix it: remove the filter haha. And it's possible, though I can't tell from this photo, that it's a lens flare. You should always use a lens hood, even when shooting at night, to prevents flares from lamp posts.
@roth I usually have moderate success at removing them, but I am shooting more at night, and they are becoming more annoying. I will try the clone tool.
@wjw1741 source wipkipedia, and I was being an ass... I am sure everyone has lens coatings now... but asahi(modern pentax) has a damn good one...
Coating lenses with up to a dozen or more different layers of chemicals to suppress reflections across the visual spectrum (instead of at only one compromise wavelength) were a logical progression. Asahi Optical's SMC Takumar lenses (1971, Japan) were the first all multicoated (Super-Multi-Coated) lenses for consumer cameras (M42 screw mount Asahi Pentax SLRs).[129] Modern highly corrected zoom lenses (q.v.) with fifteen, twenty or more elements would not be possible without multicoating.[130][131] The transmission efficiency of a modern multicoated lens surface is about 99.7% or better.[132]
Antireflection coating does not relieve the need for a lens hood (a conical tube slipped, clipped, screwed or bayoneted onto the front of a lens to block non-image forming rays from entering the lens) because flare can also result from strong stray light reflecting off of other inadequately blacked internal lens and camera components
@icywarm so is it safe to say that a hood is more important to fix this, or a new filter? I am guessing by the way you describe it, I better bring lots of cash to pay for it. Now I know why the one I have was so inexpensive.
Wow.. you folks are all so smart... I sometimes read threads like this and just shake my head and wonder what I'm doing here with all of you folks... You're all so talented!!!
Personally, wait for it... i don't use filters... unless I need a filter like a UV on film, or a grad filter for bright skies...
the thought of using a filter to protect a lens never sat well with me:
1) you can lose UP to 1 stop of light or more/less... so instead of say ISO 400 you need 800.
2) You spend $2k on great lens and you put $15 lens in front of it... might as well use a plastic lens.
3) They cause ghosting... in flare conditions
4) They fog in the cold
I leave my hood on, I have lens caps... I don't personally understand the leave the UV filter on all the time movement... but that is just me...
@csievert@lissuhllama I am convinced that by staying around people that know more, that maybe some of it will rub off on people like me. I am with you, there are many more talented people on here than I, but then again, they all had to start somewhere.
@icywarm you have a valid point, in that the lenses cost way more than the cheap filter, but maybe I need to upgrade the filter?? I get really concerned with the fact that I could ruin an expensive lens just because I did not put a filter on the end, I dont know, I guess its a catch 22.
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The best way to fix it: remove the filter haha. And it's possible, though I can't tell from this photo, that it's a lens flare. You should always use a lens hood, even when shooting at night, to prevents flares from lamp posts.
Coating lenses with up to a dozen or more different layers of chemicals to suppress reflections across the visual spectrum (instead of at only one compromise wavelength) were a logical progression. Asahi Optical's SMC Takumar lenses (1971, Japan) were the first all multicoated (Super-Multi-Coated) lenses for consumer cameras (M42 screw mount Asahi Pentax SLRs).[129] Modern highly corrected zoom lenses (q.v.) with fifteen, twenty or more elements would not be possible without multicoating.[130][131] The transmission efficiency of a modern multicoated lens surface is about 99.7% or better.[132]
Antireflection coating does not relieve the need for a lens hood (a conical tube slipped, clipped, screwed or bayoneted onto the front of a lens to block non-image forming rays from entering the lens) because flare can also result from strong stray light reflecting off of other inadequately blacked internal lens and camera components
the thought of using a filter to protect a lens never sat well with me:
1) you can lose UP to 1 stop of light or more/less... so instead of say ISO 400 you need 800.
2) You spend $2k on great lens and you put $15 lens in front of it... might as well use a plastic lens.
3) They cause ghosting... in flare conditions
4) They fog in the cold
I leave my hood on, I have lens caps... I don't personally understand the leave the UV filter on all the time movement... but that is just me...
@icywarm you have a valid point, in that the lenses cost way more than the cheap filter, but maybe I need to upgrade the filter?? I get really concerned with the fact that I could ruin an expensive lens just because I did not put a filter on the end, I dont know, I guess its a catch 22.