general rule is blown out spots have no info but darker spots do, its better to under expose the bg and correctly expose the white shirt. If you have already shot there isn't much you can do to hide the hot spots, if they are small you might be able to clone them out but from the sounds of it, it doesn't sound possible.
To remove the blue shadows you can fix this many ways, in levels go to your blue channel and play around, you can go to selective color and play with Cyan or blue, you can even try going into your hue/saturation and selecting blue and reducing the saturation. All of this will probably require some masking depending on your your background is and what else is in the image.
Thank you, Travis. I was thinking the same thing. I know Nik has software for white clothing, and I have seen its wonder.
When you have lemons, go in a different direction! Which is what I am doing right now with a bleach bypass. It produces a different type of image, but also very neat.
Also, hence, this is why I shot with two different cameras, fill flash, and reflectors. Have 2 more CF cards to load from the other camera that I havent even seen yet.
'spose this could be a question you could ask my friend Emily, who is a wedding photographer. she sees a lot of white. she has a 365 and she's on facebook as red leaf photography.
I would love to see these images when you get them done, even cooler would be to see where you started. I have a white car I take photos of and have tried to take photos of other light cars, wondering if this could help me, I haven't found a solution yet except for shooting at sunset.
Travis, A friend warned me a couple days ago to use an 18% grey card. I went with my Expodisc. But that is just White Balance, not exposure. The exposure in the face, hands, etc, is great. It was also on white sands and coquinas (more reflection at that time of day) I am thinking about converting some to a high key type image. I shot a couple hundred with 3 cameras. I told them to expect about 1/3 of what I shot ( when outside, I typically shoot 3 images for 1 good one, with the squinting, blinking, perspiration glare, etc.) And it was 3:30pm, and a mid-high sun, which is always troublesome. Once I sort through all the cards, I will send you some. It may be a few weeks though, but I appreciate your assistance.
Chris, I don't use a grey card, even for weddings, etc.
(I recently shot a black couple, high noon, at the beach.....Not an easy shoot to pull off well)
I am assuming that you may not have had the leisure to shoot closer to sunset, but have you tried a polarizer filter?
If you don't have the chance to reshoot any of these pics, try opening them in RAW. You might be able to salvage them well enough to use.
And yes, we planned to start at 5:30, and go to 7:30, but had to move it to 3:30-5:30. A 5:30 start would have been ideal of course. The latter images are beautiful with the golden cast.
I never thought about using my polarizer with portraits. I use it a LOT for landscape.
Though I typically don't use it for portraiture either, I have found that I am going to be shooting around a lot of bright or reflective surfaces, it saves a lot of frustration.
If they come out a little saturated for your liking, that is much easier to correct later than to try to bring back detail.
For your landscapes, have you played with ND filters?
I purchased a set (to arrive Mar 2). I can't wait to play with them.
Kevin, I love the Nik Software. Dont own any yet, but have trialed it.. My friend uses Colr Efex Pro and gets amazing results for her beach weddings. I use Tiffen DFX, which is nice, but I dont think as nice.
o dear, i cringe when people wear white shirts LOL. i have some advice for you, too long to get into it, i'll facebook it to you, when is this shoot ?? do absolutely have to do it at that time ?? find a shady location !! but i do have a threshold mask trick for ya.
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To remove the blue shadows you can fix this many ways, in levels go to your blue channel and play around, you can go to selective color and play with Cyan or blue, you can even try going into your hue/saturation and selecting blue and reducing the saturation. All of this will probably require some masking depending on your your background is and what else is in the image.
Best of luck
When you have lemons, go in a different direction! Which is what I am doing right now with a bleach bypass. It produces a different type of image, but also very neat.
I would love to see these images when you get them done, even cooler would be to see where you started. I have a white car I take photos of and have tried to take photos of other light cars, wondering if this could help me, I haven't found a solution yet except for shooting at sunset.
(I recently shot a black couple, high noon, at the beach.....Not an easy shoot to pull off well)
I am assuming that you may not have had the leisure to shoot closer to sunset, but have you tried a polarizer filter?
If you don't have the chance to reshoot any of these pics, try opening them in RAW. You might be able to salvage them well enough to use.
And yes, we planned to start at 5:30, and go to 7:30, but had to move it to 3:30-5:30. A 5:30 start would have been ideal of course. The latter images are beautiful with the golden cast.
I never thought about using my polarizer with portraits. I use it a LOT for landscape.
If they come out a little saturated for your liking, that is much easier to correct later than to try to bring back detail.
For your landscapes, have you played with ND filters?
I purchased a set (to arrive Mar 2). I can't wait to play with them.
I just looked into the Nik software. Have you used any of it?
They seem to have some great stuff, if it is as intuitive as described.
Check it out...
www.islandphotography.org
I did notice a little blowout in some of the whites, but all in all, they look great.
I also noticed in a few photos a halo around the white portion of the images.
This could be from her masking, not sure.
Here is a good example: http://www.islandphotography.org/Weddings/Engagement/5021356_ATkot#301405724_EcrkQ-L-LB