I am the lucky winner of the very exiting Camera Settings Challenge 27: The Black Card Technique set up by Alexis Birkill. Thank you all once more!
I decided to set up the next challenge myself, and do the administrative work, but all advice from the experienced photographers here are most welcome, to give the quality feedback to the participants.
Do some of the camera settings intimidate you? Do you want to learn how to develop your photography skills and learn how to use your camera effectively without always going back to the “auto” function? These challenges are for you!
INTRODUCTION
We have done so many cool challenges already, that it was hard to find yet another one, that would be useful to learn. After searching the internet and my cameras manual for ideas I finally came up with something.
Here are my very fast and basic shots just to illustrate shooting in extreme light conditions, where the dynamic range exceeds the cameras ability to capture it.
Both taken with spot metering mode, aperture priority, ISO 100. Left exposed for the sky, right exposed for the flower.
Ever wonder how to make the first photo look like the second? Or how to take a silhouette? Spot metering will come in handy then. The other option, that I have been using mostly, is to compensate for the exposure (rather by trial and error). So this is a good exercise for me too :)
I challenge you to explore your camera's metering modes, spot metering in particular and see how you can use it to your benefit. The goal is to produce a photo using spot metering, that would look completely different and better ;) than those taken with matrix metering mode. You may include second photo taken of the same subject under same conditions using your average metering mode in a collage to illustrate the effect (optional).
The link below explains the idea of different metering modes for exposure:
WHEN TO USE PARTIAL & SPOT METERING by Cambridgeincolour.com
Partial and spot metering give the photographer far more control over the exposure than any of the other settings, but this also means that these is more difficult to use — at least initially. They are useful when there is a relatively small object within your scene which you either need to be perfectly exposed, or know that it will provide the closest match to middle gray.
One of the most common applications of partial metering is a portrait of someone who is backlit. Metering off of their face can help avoid making the subject look like an under-exposed silhouette against the bright background. On the other hand, care should be taken as the shade of a person's skin may lead to inaccurate exposure if it is far from neutral gray reflectance — but probably not as inaccurate as what would have been caused by the backlighting.
Spot metering is used less often because its metering area is very small and thus quite specific. This can be an advantage when you are unsure of your subject's reflectance and have a specially designed gray card (or other small object) to meter off of.
Spot and partial metering are also quite useful for performing creative exposures, and when the ambient lighting is unusual.
More info and beautiful examples here:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-metering.htm
http://spotmetering.com/spwhy.htm
http://www.nphotomag.com/2013/01/09/creative-spot-metering-nikon-pro-secrets-for-shooting-in-high-contrast/
Find also your AE lock button for more fun!
http://www.all-things-photography.com/exposure-lock.html
So dig out your manuals, find the buttons and get creative!
CHALLENGE DETAILS
Experienced photographers who are knowledgeable in this particular setting are encouraged to offer “kind and constructive” suggestions on the posted entries. Those entering this challenge want to learn and improve.
This challenge starts today, June 20th, and ends on Sunday 30th June at 12:00pm Central Standard Time (17:00 Zulu time http://www.zulutime.net). All photos must be taken during these dates to be considered. Enter as many as you would like- the idea is to practice & learn. TAG YOUR PHOTO CSC-28 AND post your picture in this thread to receive feedback from other experienced photographers specific to this challenge.
Voting will take place on July 1th (and remain open 24 hours) and the winner will be announced on July 2nd. The winner of the challenge will select an experienced photographer to host a new challenge. It is the winner’s option on who they want to host the next challenge; it may be someone they follow whose work they admire, or someone who is active offering suggestions on previous CSC challenges. The winner may also select an experienced photographer for the list of photographers who have agreed to host future challenges as another option. Here is the link to that list: http://365project.org/myhrhelper/365/2011-12-12
Expect to receive constructive suggests on how to improve your skills.
How to post your photo on this link:
1) Go to your page that has the photo you wish to post.
2) Copy the “share” code in the bottom right section of that page.
3) Return to this thread and paste the code under comments
@styru Well, not really, as the camera will still meter it for you. It just uses a small portion of the frame to evaluate and will ignore the rest. Our goal here is to find the situations where this gives us better results than matrix or average metering. For example light subjects in dark surrounding - performers on stage, view out of the tunnel etc. Or try it with backlit subjects, and let the backdrop turn white.
@sassik - ah, no, sorry, you misunderstand - I was refering to my cameras meter - rarely use my DSLR's in-build meter - indeed my favourite lens offers no auto-focuss, no auto stop-down, no auto aperture, and no metering.
All these are taken without auto-anything:
There is something very satisfying about knowing that a picture has turned out the way it has because you focused it by eye, chose an F setting, estimated the exposure etc.
A great challenge. Extremely useful function that often slips by me.
One more setting people might want to use in conjunction with Spot Metering is Exposure Lock. If you are like me and use single point AF to get the subject in focus and then reframe, you might also want to lock the exposure at the same time if that is also your "spot." There is a configuration option in almost every camera to lock the exposure at the same time as the focus, but I usually forget where it is and don't want this a default anyway. So look for your "AF/AE" button, press and hold it on the inital AF to lock the exposure as well. Works in all exposure situations, but especially useful for "spot."
@styru But you would use your camera meter to help out your judgement to help you set the exposue you want, and then set it in "M." Most folks who rely on AF would "spot" in conjunction with the initial acquisition of focus and for them (me included) Spot and AF are inextricably tied together.
@frankhymus - No Frank - my favourite lens (the one used for the above pics) is 60 years old, Russian, screw mount, cost £10 ($15US) and not designed to fit my Nikon - there is no option to auto focus, auto stop down, or to use any form of metering on my Nikon (in fact all the camera will tell you about the lens - is that there is "NO LENS ATTACHED")
I use the Sunny 16 rule - and take it from there...
It might be worth mentioning that not all cameras support spot metering -- some older models from Canon (400D/XTi and older) don't have it, nor do some older bridge cameras. Check your manual if you can't find the option, or ask here!
@sassik Sassik asked me to post this shot here to give you another example of how spot metering can work. Lights still on in daylight. Spot Meter on the bright bulb and also tip in -1 2/3 exposure compensation, and here you have the final image, after a healthy dose of Clarity in post to bring back the cloud formation.
BTW, if you are shooting the "super moon" in the next few days, spot metering on the light of the moon, right on the brightest edge if you can, works to get you an easy shot, hand held, that doesn't blow away the details.
So I'm having the HARDEST time using Spot Metering. I think it's that I can't understand. I select Spot Metering and move my AF point to the place where I want it to take it's reading from. But I don't think it's doing it. :C
Should I have it on Auto-focus, or does just selecting where it comes from do it? :C
As I suggested, the moon at night makes a nice exercise for Spot Metering to get you quickly to the right exposure values. And as above, a dose of minus EV compensation to be adjusted post.
@paign Hi Paign. My Nikon can decouple the focus from Spot Metering. I can manually focus and use the "spots" of the usual AF "focus" points to set the exposure.
See what I said above about being careful to keep the spot on the place you want to meter on, or lock the exposure after the half press of the shutter that will set the exposure but not the focus if you are manually focusing. If you lock the exposure values after metering you can then reframe and keep that exposure. If you don't, the exposure will change dynamically based on which part of the frame the spot is currently over. I assume your DSLR must be similar to mine.
Some folks like to use spot metering (in A or S priority) to get the proper exposure values, then go to M mode and dial those values in manually. That way you don't have to worry about "locking" the exposure which is now fixed.
I must say that to manually focus and to set and lock the exposure in A or S mode and keep it locked seems to require a lot of manual dexterity to keep straight. :)
@aponi Hi Kathryn! It seems to me, that your spot metering works. Any built in camera metering tries to make the avarage that it sees 18% gray. And the white fur of your cat looks rather gray. To make it white you should remember the reading, go manual and take the exposure up 1...2 stops.
http://365project.org/paign/30-photo-challa/2013-06-03 (Link to the Side-by-side)
I took the reading from the flowers themselves and was very pleasantly surprised. I did two photos for comparison and am actually quite pleased with myself. :D
@myhrhelper Hi Kathy! I like your colourful landscapes very much, they have their own appeal. If spot metering worked well for these photos, then it must be correct ;)
I have no information though, what part of the photos you used for metering and did you make the sky darker/grass lighter in post processing. So I can't really tell, if the spot metering helped you out here or would it have been more or less the same with other metering modes. Did you by any chance take a photo with other metering modes of the same scene?
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About metering modes
http://www.chrisweston.uk.com/assets/tuitionsheet/web%20pdf_metering.pdf
cool chart about metering modes by Nikon
http://www.nphotomag.com/2012/07/09/nikon-metering-modes-what-youve-got-and-when-to-use-them/
buttons for Canon users
http://www.photoplusmag.com/2013/01/17/how-to-use-the-metering-modes-on-your-canon-d-slr/
more explanations and some photos
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-metering.htm
Some cool ideas:
http://spotmetering.com/spwhy.htm
http://www.nphotomag.com/2013/01/09/creative-spot-metering-nikon-pro-secrets-for-shooting-in-high-contrast/
If you wish to lock your exposure:
http://www.all-things-photography.com/exposure-lock.html
All these are taken without auto-anything:
There is something very satisfying about knowing that a picture has turned out the way it has because you focused it by eye, chose an F setting, estimated the exposure etc.
One more setting people might want to use in conjunction with Spot Metering is Exposure Lock. If you are like me and use single point AF to get the subject in focus and then reframe, you might also want to lock the exposure at the same time if that is also your "spot." There is a configuration option in almost every camera to lock the exposure at the same time as the focus, but I usually forget where it is and don't want this a default anyway. So look for your "AF/AE" button, press and hold it on the inital AF to lock the exposure as well. Works in all exposure situations, but especially useful for "spot."
I use the Sunny 16 rule - and take it from there...
You can read about the lens in my post on this link Industar 50-2 (because sometimes it's good to get back to basics)
But we are off topic - sorry @sassik
It might be worth mentioning that not all cameras support spot metering -- some older models from Canon (400D/XTi and older) don't have it, nor do some older bridge cameras. Check your manual if you can't find the option, or ask here!
Metered from his lighter chin.
BTW, if you are shooting the "super moon" in the next few days, spot metering on the light of the moon, right on the brightest edge if you can, works to get you an easy shot, hand held, that doesn't blow away the details.
Should I have it on Auto-focus, or does just selecting where it comes from do it? :C
See what I said above about being careful to keep the spot on the place you want to meter on, or lock the exposure after the half press of the shutter that will set the exposure but not the focus if you are manually focusing. If you lock the exposure values after metering you can then reframe and keep that exposure. If you don't, the exposure will change dynamically based on which part of the frame the spot is currently over. I assume your DSLR must be similar to mine.
Some folks like to use spot metering (in A or S priority) to get the proper exposure values, then go to M mode and dial those values in manually. That way you don't have to worry about "locking" the exposure which is now fixed.
I must say that to manually focus and to set and lock the exposure in A or S mode and keep it locked seems to require a lot of manual dexterity to keep straight. :)
Hope that helps.
Spot metered and adjusted exposure down
I took the reading from the flowers themselves and was very pleasantly surprised. I did two photos for comparison and am actually quite pleased with myself. :D
I have no information though, what part of the photos you used for metering and did you make the sky darker/grass lighter in post processing. So I can't really tell, if the spot metering helped you out here or would it have been more or less the same with other metering modes. Did you by any chance take a photo with other metering modes of the same scene?