Night Shooting -- Need Technical Advice

December 31st, 2013
I would like some advice on shooting at night or otherwise in the dark. Why is it that if I put my camera in full manual mode -- including manual focus -- set everything as I want it -- focus, apeture, shutter speed -- that my camera (Sony SLT A65) will not take the shot? It's very frustrating that I can't figure out why it won't take the photo. With or without a wired or wireless remote or manually depressing the shutter (which I'd rather not do as I usually have shutter speed on BULB). Any insight as to what I'm doing wrong will be appreciated, thanks!
December 31st, 2013
Which lens are you using @sjoblues ?

I've got an A37, and if the lens has an AF/MF switch then that is the one to move to MF, while leaving the BODY AF/MF in AF.

Confusing?! ;)

On older Minolta glass (for example), there is no auto-focus motor built into the lens - hence no AF/MF Lens switch. In this instance I have to use the body switch to select manual.

If these settings are wrong, then my A37 won't shoot in the dark.

Apologies if this is pointing out the bleedin' obvious!!! Just trying to assist!
December 31st, 2013
The Sony alpha camera's work very well at night. What subjects are you trying to shoot at night? I ask because settings differ for different types of subjects. With any camera, just like a car, you still have to operate it.

MF/AF is not the main issue. It seems to be more M settings. Again to offer suggestions we need to know what the subject is.

Other places to get advice on shooting at night are:

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/
http://digital-photography-school.com/
December 31st, 2013
@joeboo Thanks for the response. I just went through a panic because I reached for my camera bag and it wasn't where I thought it should be, so I darted around the house in increasing distress until I remembered it was in the car. Anyway...

The lens that was on the camera most recently when it refused to cooperate was my (Sony) 18-250/3.5-6.3. It does not have its own AF-MF switch, so I was setting the focus switch on the camera to MF.

I do have an older Minolta lens (100-200mm) that has its own focus switch. I think my 50mm prime does as well. But it was this 18-250 with no switch of its own that was present most recently.

Your point wasn't bleedin' obvious...it was a good thought. Thanks!
December 31st, 2013
@chapjohn John, I was out and about for the Festival of Lights at the Cincinnati Zoo. One photo I did manage to make is here:
http://365project.org/sjoblues/365/2013-12-30

I tried other shots where I wanted a longer exposure where there were people walking the lighted paths. I would set everything up on the tripod, put everything on manual, set my apeture and focus, set the shutter to BULB, press the remote...and nothing. Push the shutter button the camera, nothing. It just refused to cooperate.

I'm guessing there's something obvious I'm overlooking.
December 31st, 2013
I would check the AF/MF switch on the lens and the camera they should match. I would also recomend for those bright lights to start with the Sunny 16 rule and make adjustments from there. This also works for shooting the moon. But it is not a cure for all night shoots.
January 1st, 2014
@sjoblues IMO I suggest to you to keep aperture and speed in manual mode for night exposure but keep Autofocus on. Try to focus a zone of the area with enough contrast between light and dark. Try to focus first, lock focus and re-frame. If not possible because it is absolutely dark you'll need the help of a hand lamp or a pocket laser pointer to let autofocus catch a focus point you should light on an object at the distance you need to focus. Finally you'll need a tripod.

I hope this will help you. Happy new year :)
January 1st, 2014
I have the same camera and @jborrases thought is what works for me. If there isnt a contrast difference to focus on it wont.
January 1st, 2014
It seems that AF on the camera is good to use. I mentioned the Sunny 16 rule earlier. If you not looked for this rule (it is easy find on several sites) here it is: Aperture at f16, choose your ISO, shutter speed is 1/ISO setting. If ISO is 100 then shutter speed would 1/100 of a second. Experiement with these settings.

Afte looking the image you posted, it appears using the sunny 16 concept would help. When you have bright things as the subject (sun, moon, lights) you do not need a long exposure. Increase ISO, f16, fairly fast shutter is needed to only let in a little of the light.
January 6th, 2014
I need to learn more about the sunny 16 rule. Glad you told about it. Very helpful to try to learn why I am doing these settings.
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