Every time I visit a surf beach in Cornwall, in the hope of catching a spectacular action shot....... I am always amazed that there are so few people actually surfing.
There are dozens of people tinkering with their boards, standing around chatting, getting into or out of wet suits and running about in wet suits and just floating about on top of their boards. To be honest most of them would be better off with an inflatable airbed on the water rather than a surf board...... and when some brave soul does stand up and tries surfing, they usually last about 2 seconds before they fall off and are engulfed by a wave.
So having upset all the local "surfer dudes".... I'm off to wax my guitar. :)