Today we went to a Museum and we weren't allowed no Flash Photography :(
Recently I discussed this on the boards and I'm still having problems in dark setting's ;(
It's really making me sad :( And frustrated?
As I took all your advice and followed the steps you told me to last time.
And I just can't seem to get it right :( And I just do not know what I'm doing wrong :( Or what to do :(
As it still seems everytime I take photo's in dark setting's they are blurred?
This time I wasn't allowed to use the flash :(
I used my 18 - 55 lens, set on AV with the highest ISO?
I was so frustrated and sad at the fact that all the photo's I was taking inside of the Museum, I resulted in calling the Jessops shop!
The Lady suggested that I use TV, ISO on Auto and a shutter speed of 1/60? Again I tried this and the photo's did seem abit better? But still dark & blurry?
I took the advice previously and down-loaded the FREE 30 day trial coral paintshop, but having never edited any of my photo's before! This is going to be tricky! But I'm willing to learn!
It's just so frustrating that whenever I go into a dark setting with or without the flash on, my photo's seem dark and blurred :(
Have you tried doing it on Automatic, seeing what the settings are (mine show up on through the view finder) and then going to those settings.
I also have times where I am not very steady, so I try to find a wall or post to lean against, a ledge to put the camera to make it a bit more steady. The longer your shutter is open the more chance you have at moving the camera. Also in the top photo I do not think you are the problem, but the adorable models seem to have some movement.
I think you may have the shutter open a bit too much because the photos are really bright here on my monitor. The bottom shot seems to work. Also find out the noise level for each of your ISO and set it to one below the noticeable noise. For my camera it is at 800 so all my interior photos have an iso between 400 and 640.
Heya! Your photo's are less than 1/60th of a second (looking at your exif data) which is why they are blurry. Rule of thumb is 1/60th is the lowest to photograph hand held --- actually, its not, but you and the subject have to be very steady, and I dont know any children who will stand that still!!
Even at 1/60th of a second, you'll still get movement, blurry arms/legs, but it should still be acceptable.
If I were you, I'd set the camera in purely manual mode to overide anything your camera might get wrong. AV mode is still automatic of sorts, and will change the shutter speed to keep the aperture at the setting you want it on, which is why you got lower than 1/60th of a second - the camera changed it for you, so manual is much better to control the outcome.
Set it on 1/60th (I recommend a little higher if possible), keep the aperture open as wide as it will go and if necessary, lighten the image when you get home on the computer. I dont think, looking at your photo's, that you'd need to lighten them much as they are very bright. Better to have a slightly darker image to work with than a blurry image that you cant fix.
there will be better advice than mine, but to start with:
-try shooting RAW if you can, and then using a faster shutter speed than normal, and you can bring brightness out post-process
-if at all possible, don't do handheld. Not convenient to have a tripod I know, but it could help to lean on or set the camera on anything: and then use timers instead of activating the shutter by pressing with your finger. anything to keep the camera very still.
-post process, you want to brighten them without blowing out and oversaturating. These pictures all look a little redish- try dragging the thresholds over a little cooler (more blues?)
Again, I am not an expert, but I think this should help.
Slow shutter speeds make it almost impossible to get pictures in low light without using a tripod. Any amount of shake will show up because of the slower shutter speed. This is more true if you are holding the camera.
I suggest you go someplace where the light is low and starting with what you are currently doing take a picture, increase the shutter spead and take another picture. Do this until you find what will work with your camera. Don't give up.
Being indoors is very difficult until you get the hang of it. It is all in the lens that you have available. Follow Freida's advice and things will improve. Manual settings is the way to go. The first two pictures are blurry due to movement from the kids and a low exposure. Both pictures are at 1/4 second exposure. You can see your son moved his arm in the first picture and since the shutter was open so long, the movement was caught on film. You want to try to keep your exposure around 125 - 200. The higher the number, the more that you will freeze the movement. Try capture running water at the different exposures and you will see the difference.
Because you will be at faster shutter speeds, you need to let the light in some other way. That is where your F-stops (aperture) comes in. This will depend upon your lense. I suspect your 18-55 is like most of ours and has f-stops from 4.0 - 5.6. It is written on the lense what the f-stops are. So, at 18, you will let the most light in with an f-stop of 4.0. At 55 (zoomed in), you will allow less light in. So, in low-light situations, you will need to get closer so that you will not use your zoom. Try f-stop 4.0 and apeture 125. see how the light looks. If it is still blurry, then you will have to go up in aperture to "freeze" the motion or ask your kids to stand still longer. :).
As far as color goes, check your white balance setting. You probably want to change it from Automatic to Flurescent or Tungsten depending on the type of lighting they have indoors. It should help adjust the colors.
Canon sells a 50mm lense that has an f-stop of 1.8 for only around $110. this is a great addition for your collection for indoor pictures. You will notice such a difference in the types of pictures that you can take because it has such a low aperture available to you to let in the light. I highly recommend it. They had a previous version that was even cheaper, but an f-stop at 2.8. Maybe there is one of those on ebay for around $50.00.
I usually set my camera on something then use the self timer because when you push the shutter release there is usually a little shaking that happens. If there is nothing to place your camera on, you can use a wall. You can also use your body as a tripod.
I remember with your other post that you do have a 50mm prime lens. Next time indoors, your really need to take the telephoto off and put on the 50mm. Then set your camera to AV, dial the F-stop down to 1.8. or 1.4 (depending on the lens), start with an ISO of 800, and check what the camera calculates the shutter speed. Hopefully, you'll end up with something close to or faster than 1/60th of a second. If it's still too slow a shutter speed, keep stepping up the ISO and checking the shutter speed until you hopefully hit 1/60th. If you don't then, I'm afraid there's just not enough light for the camera to freeze the image without a flash.
Also, note with a low f-stop like 1.8, you are going to have a very shallow depth of field so you're going to lose background and foreground detail, but often that's not such a bad thing.
@dddave0
Why must you use AV? Just out of interest? (and not being difficult, honest!!) Setting the camera manually to f/1.8 then working out the shutter speed is the same thing, and minimises the chances of missing a shot because the camera changes the exposure time if the lighting changes quickly. Having something slightly too underexposed or overexposed is always better than something blurry - be amazed what detail is still there.
Surely its much better to learn manual photography, and how basic photography works, then always be in control of a situation.
@bevspics if you have the 18-55 lens, the one who came with the camera, at 18mm you must have f/3.5 and 5.6 at 55mm. try to shot 18mm focal length, iso about 400 or 800, no more because the noise will be too much, and shutter speed about 1/30 if the subject is still.
Or use a tripod :D
and if you shot RAW, you can post-processing much better if the subject is dark
@bevspics I feel your frustration. I too really really struggle with this and living in quite a dark house it means I often miss or blur the family moments I want to remember. My flash gives a very harsh feel to the photos so I try to shoot without.
The above advice is great, as is your question, I think we have to keep practising and hopefully one day it will all click! Good luck - I will follow you to see how you go as I fully understand the annoyance of downloading a heap of blurred photos from a great day out.
Good luck!!!
I really apperciate all your comments, and I will take them all on board and hopefully practise will eventually make perfect!!!
@Freida! No that's okay for asking? Why do I use AV? Being totally honest? I don't really know? Someone a while ago at Jessops said that's the easiest of all the different setting's to use other than automatic!!
And I've used it ever since?
I will have ago at using M and see how I go!
As for RAW! That's another level I don't think I'm ready for just yet! But thanks for the tips Alex ;)
@blightygal
No problem, I'll try to explain the reasoning behind my suggestion. I started with changing the lens out with one with a larger aperature. Going from f5 to f1.8 is going to provide the largest benefit for low light situation than any camera mode you can set.
As far as AV, I suggest using AV to lock the lens wide open and let in the most light. I think, in this case, leaving the camera in semi auto AV mode would be helpful for the user to deal with the changing light conditions. If you get the ISO dialed in so the shutter speed is around 1/60th for the low light situation, so you are getting sharp enough pictures with close to correct exposure, you will avoid over exposure with the camera calculating faster the shutter speeds as lighting improves,
Nothing against manual mode, but it does require more attention that not everyone is ready to manage while on the go. You're right that you can't fix blurry and you can manage some level of over/under exposure, so manaul mode maybe the way to go if you don't mind the post editing.
@dddave0
I do understand your reasoning and understand how AV works. I was just trying to say that shooting manually, and playing/learning will in time, make sure that a person understands the basics. Setting the ap to 1.8 in AV mode or manual mode is the same without the camera changing the exposure settings and the danger of losing control. I don't believe in automatic settings unless folk know how they work and their limitations. It avoids disappointment and poor results.
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It's just so frustrating that whenever I go into a dark setting with or without the flash on, my photo's seem dark and blurred :(
Hope you can help?
Thank You Beverley
I also have times where I am not very steady, so I try to find a wall or post to lean against, a ledge to put the camera to make it a bit more steady. The longer your shutter is open the more chance you have at moving the camera. Also in the top photo I do not think you are the problem, but the adorable models seem to have some movement.
I think you may have the shutter open a bit too much because the photos are really bright here on my monitor. The bottom shot seems to work. Also find out the noise level for each of your ISO and set it to one below the noticeable noise. For my camera it is at 800 so all my interior photos have an iso between 400 and 640.
Even at 1/60th of a second, you'll still get movement, blurry arms/legs, but it should still be acceptable.
If I were you, I'd set the camera in purely manual mode to overide anything your camera might get wrong. AV mode is still automatic of sorts, and will change the shutter speed to keep the aperture at the setting you want it on, which is why you got lower than 1/60th of a second - the camera changed it for you, so manual is much better to control the outcome.
Set it on 1/60th (I recommend a little higher if possible), keep the aperture open as wide as it will go and if necessary, lighten the image when you get home on the computer. I dont think, looking at your photo's, that you'd need to lighten them much as they are very bright. Better to have a slightly darker image to work with than a blurry image that you cant fix.
-try shooting RAW if you can, and then using a faster shutter speed than normal, and you can bring brightness out post-process
-if at all possible, don't do handheld. Not convenient to have a tripod I know, but it could help to lean on or set the camera on anything: and then use timers instead of activating the shutter by pressing with your finger. anything to keep the camera very still.
-post process, you want to brighten them without blowing out and oversaturating. These pictures all look a little redish- try dragging the thresholds over a little cooler (more blues?)
Again, I am not an expert, but I think this should help.
I suggest you go someplace where the light is low and starting with what you are currently doing take a picture, increase the shutter spead and take another picture. Do this until you find what will work with your camera. Don't give up.
Picture 1:
Exposure: 0.25 sec (1/4)
Aperture: f/5.0
Picture2:
Exposure: 0.25 sec (1/4)
Aperture: f/5.6
Because you will be at faster shutter speeds, you need to let the light in some other way. That is where your F-stops (aperture) comes in. This will depend upon your lense. I suspect your 18-55 is like most of ours and has f-stops from 4.0 - 5.6. It is written on the lense what the f-stops are. So, at 18, you will let the most light in with an f-stop of 4.0. At 55 (zoomed in), you will allow less light in. So, in low-light situations, you will need to get closer so that you will not use your zoom. Try f-stop 4.0 and apeture 125. see how the light looks. If it is still blurry, then you will have to go up in aperture to "freeze" the motion or ask your kids to stand still longer. :).
As far as color goes, check your white balance setting. You probably want to change it from Automatic to Flurescent or Tungsten depending on the type of lighting they have indoors. It should help adjust the colors.
Canon sells a 50mm lense that has an f-stop of 1.8 for only around $110. this is a great addition for your collection for indoor pictures. You will notice such a difference in the types of pictures that you can take because it has such a low aperture available to you to let in the light. I highly recommend it. They had a previous version that was even cheaper, but an f-stop at 2.8. Maybe there is one of those on ebay for around $50.00.
Normal EF 50mm f/1.8 II Autofocus Lens
I have a book that has examples on how to use your body as a tripod but for the sake of showing you, I looked for any suggestions online and this one seems good enough: http://www.nicholsonprints.com/Articles/tripodsubstitution.htm
Also, note with a low f-stop like 1.8, you are going to have a very shallow depth of field so you're going to lose background and foreground detail, but often that's not such a bad thing.
Why must you use AV? Just out of interest? (and not being difficult, honest!!) Setting the camera manually to f/1.8 then working out the shutter speed is the same thing, and minimises the chances of missing a shot because the camera changes the exposure time if the lighting changes quickly. Having something slightly too underexposed or overexposed is always better than something blurry - be amazed what detail is still there.
Surely its much better to learn manual photography, and how basic photography works, then always be in control of a situation.
Or use a tripod :D
and if you shot RAW, you can post-processing much better if the subject is dark
The above advice is great, as is your question, I think we have to keep practising and hopefully one day it will all click! Good luck - I will follow you to see how you go as I fully understand the annoyance of downloading a heap of blurred photos from a great day out.
Good luck!!!
I really apperciate all your comments, and I will take them all on board and hopefully practise will eventually make perfect!!!
@Freida! No that's okay for asking? Why do I use AV? Being totally honest? I don't really know? Someone a while ago at Jessops said that's the easiest of all the different setting's to use other than automatic!!
And I've used it ever since?
I will have ago at using M and see how I go!
As for RAW! That's another level I don't think I'm ready for just yet! But thanks for the tips Alex ;)
Thanks once again :)
No problem, I'll try to explain the reasoning behind my suggestion. I started with changing the lens out with one with a larger aperature. Going from f5 to f1.8 is going to provide the largest benefit for low light situation than any camera mode you can set.
As far as AV, I suggest using AV to lock the lens wide open and let in the most light. I think, in this case, leaving the camera in semi auto AV mode would be helpful for the user to deal with the changing light conditions. If you get the ISO dialed in so the shutter speed is around 1/60th for the low light situation, so you are getting sharp enough pictures with close to correct exposure, you will avoid over exposure with the camera calculating faster the shutter speeds as lighting improves,
Nothing against manual mode, but it does require more attention that not everyone is ready to manage while on the go. You're right that you can't fix blurry and you can manage some level of over/under exposure, so manaul mode maybe the way to go if you don't mind the post editing.
I do understand your reasoning and understand how AV works. I was just trying to say that shooting manually, and playing/learning will in time, make sure that a person understands the basics. Setting the ap to 1.8 in AV mode or manual mode is the same without the camera changing the exposure settings and the danger of losing control. I don't believe in automatic settings unless folk know how they work and their limitations. It avoids disappointment and poor results.