@northy won the previous Camera Setting Challenge #33 and has asked me to host the next challenge. I’ve selected High ISO Shooting since it is Halloween this month and many folks may find themselves out after dark.
First however, do some of the camera settings intimidate you? Do you want to learn how to develop your photography skills and learn how to use your camera effectively without always going back to the “auto” function? These challenges are for you!
As mentioned, this week’s challenge is: High ISO Shooting
Explanation: ISO is actually an acronym, which stands for International Standards Organization, and the ISO rating along with the shutter speed and aperture setting are the three elements that determine the final exposure of the photographic image. The ISO rating, which ranges in value from 25 to 6400 (or beyond) in today’s digital cameras, indicates the specific light sensitivity. The lower the number, the image sensor is set to less light sensitivity. Conversely, a higher number indicates a higher sensitivity to light, thereby allowing that film or image sensor to work better in low light conditions.
Traditionally, the lower ISO rating means your typically producing a smoother, cleaner image. Again, a higher ISO had larger, jagged grains of “salt”, thus producing “rougher” or grainier images. In digital photography, the same logic applies… the lower the ISO rating, the less sensitive the image sensor is and therefore the smoother the image, because there is less digital noise in the image. The higher the ISO rating (more sensitive) the stronger the image sensor has to work to establish an effective image, which thereby produces more digital noise (those multi-colored speckles in the shadows and in the midtones). So what is digital noise? It is any light signal that does not originate from the subject, and therefore creates random color in an image.
As a photographer, you quickly begin to understand the lower ISO ratings produce color-accurate, smooth and aesthetically appealing images… and this requires ideal lighting conditions. However, there are some subjects that you want to photograph in low light conditions. Or, you may want to stop fast-moving objects (a humming bird or a race horse). In both situations, you need higher ISOs to capture those images with an acceptable exposure. Unlike film, with a digital camera you can increase the ISO with the touch of a button, and this flexibility makes it much easier to get the image you want. So with the higher ISOs, you can use faster shutter speeds to eliminate motion blur and/or camera shake.
For this challenge I’d like to set a threshold of ISO 1600 and NO maximum.
Experienced photographers who are knowledgeable in this particular setting are encouraged to offer “kind and constructive” suggestions on the posted entries. Those entering this challenge want to learn and improve.
This challenge starts today, Oct 13th and will last through 9:00pm Pacific Standard Time on Oct 23nd. All photos must be taken during these dates to be considered. Enter as many as you would like- the idea is to practice & learn.
TAG YOUR PHOTO CSC-34 AND post your picture in this thread to receive feedback from other experienced photographers specific to this challenge.
Voting will take place shortly after the finalists have been selected and will remain open for roughly 24 hours. The winner will be announced shortly after the voting closes. The winner of the challenge will select an experienced photographer to host a new challenge. It is the winner’s option on who they want to host the next challenge; it may be someone they follow whose work they admire, or someone who is active offering suggestions on previous CSC challenges. The winner may also select an experienced photographer for the list of photographers who have agreed to host future challenges as another option. Here is the link to that list: http://365project.org/myhrhelper/365/2011-12-12
Expect to receive constructive suggestions on how to improve your skills.
How to post your photo on this link:
1) Go to your page that has the photo you wish to post.
2) Copy the “share” code in the bottom right section of that page.
3) Return to this thread and paste the code under comments
Perhaps I could say a little about how digital cameras implement High ISO or ASA as it used to be in the old film days? It was only in the old film days that high ISO film was actually more sensitive chemically to light. Not so with the digital sensor, so here's how it's done in digital cameras...
Each pixel point on the sensor generates a signal (analog), usually a voltage differential, depending on how many photons hit the point while the shutter is open. That signal is then amplified and then passed back to an arrary of analog/digital convertors. How much it is amplified depends on the ISO setting.
As with any amplification of analog signals the "noise" (random fluctuations in the analog signal, static as we know it in the world of radio) is also amplified, and it is these amplified random fluctions that when digitized show up as "noise." A lot of amplification, more perceptible noise, a little, the noise might be imperceptible against a good initial analog signal. Once again, ISO is implemented in digital cameras by amplication of the sensor signals, not by adjusting in any way how the sensor generates those signals. The sensor is not somehow made "more sensitive" to light as many authors incorrectly suggest. The same base signal is generated no matter what, but is then amplified as needed.
Noise in digital camera sensors, those random fluctioations, can further be influenced before amplification, sometimes strongly, by heat or strong signals from neighboring pixels, independently of the ISO setting high or low. You hear the techies talking about pixels bleeding into their neighbors; it has nothing to do with blood! You see this especially for long exposures, and we then talk about Long Exposure Noise, rather than High ISO Noise.
These random "blips," after amplification, then are the source of noise in digital cameras. Noise (High ISO and Long Exposure both) can show up as "luminance" noise, that white "grain" in expanses of constant hue or tone, or as "color" noise, where you get speckles of unwanted color, red and green most often, especially in dark areas. The base cause is exactly the same for either, the final rendition depends on the software generating tone and color in the camera. Camera manufacturers hold their propritary algorithms for this generation closely guarded secrets, and there are numerous patents in the field.
A great reference on this and numerous other things is Complete Digital Photography by Ben Long, the best overall book I have yet to read about digital photography and post processing, especially the underlying technology.
@mikegifford thank you, have just tried it and it works. Going to sleep now as it's midnight. I do get carried away with this project. Must get my beauty sleep! Thanks again.
@mikegifford Thank you so much Mike! This is a great challenge.
What I like about this one even people with a point and shoot camera can try this setting since most cameras you can change the ISO.
I just so happened to upload one today that I took with limited lighting in church. I will tag it, but not post it here. It has some definite flaws, so I played around with it in processing. It's a good challenge.
I'd like to see what different editors can do with Noise Mitigation, and how clever people can be in the elimination not to lose adequate sharpness, so it would be nice to see a before and after. Also it might be an opportunity to see how various cameras, older and newer, handle high ISO. Technology moves really quickly in this area...
Thanks for the references...especially the clicking mom's one. I'm not a mom, but there are lots of good resources on that site. I"m looking forward to this challenge. I always bump up my ISO, but always feel like someone might be looking over my shoulder saying I'm a bad girl for doing so.
I tagged mine but won't post it here. I'll be taking more throughout the week. I love the idea of these challenges, it looks like if I keep an eye out they can help me focus on what I need to focus on.
@mikegifford Don't know what you're trying to say really. As I mentioned, I wanted the noise because I feel it adds to the photo in this case. Reducing it is the last thing I'd want to do. I'd just have set the ISO lower if I didn't want the noise!
@kaesebiscuit just passing info to everyone in the challenge, ignore as you want since this was general info and links not directed to anyone in particular.
i'm still trying to figure out how to set the camera to auto ISO with a min of 1600... i'm pretty sure on my canon i've seen a spot where i can set it at auto and a maximum - but can't find that now, and don't recall a minimum... and for the sony, i can't find the setting to do either... am i lame or what? need to dig out the manuals i guess...
anyway, i've been experimenting with high ISO where i've set it to 1600 or 3200... and so far, i've had some decentish results... i need to get outside to do some that are worth posting, i think... but if i run out of time i've got one i took earlier this week that i will enter - just for the fun and practice of it... tx so much for hosting this challenge!
Here are three shots. Extremely low light, probably 1 hour after sunset.
1. ISO 200, f/8, 10 seconds
2. ISO 1600, f/8, .8 seconds
3. ISO 3200, f/8, 1.3 seconds.
@northy I know with my Nikon I can set the lower threshold ISO and easily switch from auto-ISO to fixed ISO with selection by holding in the ISO button while turning the command dial. In any case, good luck!
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Each pixel point on the sensor generates a signal (analog), usually a voltage differential, depending on how many photons hit the point while the shutter is open. That signal is then amplified and then passed back to an arrary of analog/digital convertors. How much it is amplified depends on the ISO setting.
As with any amplification of analog signals the "noise" (random fluctuations in the analog signal, static as we know it in the world of radio) is also amplified, and it is these amplified random fluctions that when digitized show up as "noise." A lot of amplification, more perceptible noise, a little, the noise might be imperceptible against a good initial analog signal. Once again, ISO is implemented in digital cameras by amplication of the sensor signals, not by adjusting in any way how the sensor generates those signals. The sensor is not somehow made "more sensitive" to light as many authors incorrectly suggest. The same base signal is generated no matter what, but is then amplified as needed.
Noise in digital camera sensors, those random fluctioations, can further be influenced before amplification, sometimes strongly, by heat or strong signals from neighboring pixels, independently of the ISO setting high or low. You hear the techies talking about pixels bleeding into their neighbors; it has nothing to do with blood! You see this especially for long exposures, and we then talk about Long Exposure Noise, rather than High ISO Noise.
These random "blips," after amplification, then are the source of noise in digital cameras. Noise (High ISO and Long Exposure both) can show up as "luminance" noise, that white "grain" in expanses of constant hue or tone, or as "color" noise, where you get speckles of unwanted color, red and green most often, especially in dark areas. The base cause is exactly the same for either, the final rendition depends on the software generating tone and color in the camera. Camera manufacturers hold their propritary algorithms for this generation closely guarded secrets, and there are numerous patents in the field.
A great reference on this and numerous other things is Complete Digital Photography by Ben Long, the best overall book I have yet to read about digital photography and post processing, especially the underlying technology.
@northy @myhrhelper New settings challenge is up...
What I like about this one even people with a point and shoot camera can try this setting since most cameras you can change the ISO.
Not too bad until you zoom in...
ISO was set to "Hi2", which is apparently 12600, as high as the D3100 will go.
....and others that I might have missed that are either participating or thinking of participating in this challenge:
Here are a few definitions from Wikipedia with respect to image noise: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_noise
If you're a Lightroom user watch this video: http://tv.adobe.com/watch/learn-lightroom-5/reducing-image-noise-in-lightroom-5/
If you're a PSE user you might want to watch read this PDF doc: http://www.photoshopessentials.com/photo-editing/reduce-noise/
If you're a Photoshop user read the bottom of this document about noise on given color channels. Very interesting - http://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/using/correcting-image-distortion-noise.html
Take care... Mike
both at 3200.
anyway, i've been experimenting with high ISO where i've set it to 1600 or 3200... and so far, i've had some decentish results... i need to get outside to do some that are worth posting, i think... but if i run out of time i've got one i took earlier this week that i will enter - just for the fun and practice of it... tx so much for hosting this challenge!
1. ISO 200, f/8, 10 seconds
2. ISO 1600, f/8, .8 seconds
3. ISO 3200, f/8, 1.3 seconds.
Camera d300 (6 years old), no processing.
105mm macro lens, D300
1. Raw file - no processing just resaved as jpg
2. JPG file - no processing
The noise in the raw file is much better than the jpg file.
3. This is processed from the raw file. I used Imagenomics Noiseware 5 for noise reduction.
Noise reduction using Nik Dfine