I am getting frustrated and discouraged by not being able to get my P&S to do what I want it to. I think the time has come to begin researching DSLR's, with the intention of buying one sometime in the future. I like to put a lot of time and effort into these things, so I get the best fit!
I have read previous posts, so will be taking advice from there, such as holding cameras to see how they fit (a big influence in how I chose my last camera!!)
I have a few questions though;
1. Would you buy a second hand DSLR and lenses?
2. Does the brand of camera have an influence on what lenses you can use with it, or are lenses pretty universal?
3. What kind of lenses are considered essential?
4. Would you buy a DSLR that isn't a Canon or Nikon?
5. What qualities do you look for in a DSLR? Zoom? MP? Essential functions etc?
1. I would consider buying a second hand DSLR and or lens only if I knew the person I was buying it from.
2. A canon lens only fits on a canon, a nikon lens only fits on a nikon, etc, however you can buy sigma lens which are made for either, not to sure how to explain it, so in short yes, buying a particular brand camera determineds which brand lens you can buy.
3. no idea, I have two lens and want more.... this very much depends on what you want to do with it....
4. Yep, but I would not buy a sony
5. I looked at what I wanted to use it for, spoke with people who were doing what I wanted to do with it and found most of them were using the same camera so I bought that one.... if that makes sense......
I'm sure someone will have answered this before I get it typed out and hit reply, but I'll take a stab at it anyway.
1. I have bought several used SLRs and cameras. With cameras, find out how many shutter cycles it's had. (you can find it in the exif data of most DSLRs) Most consumer level DSLRs are rated for about 20 - 30k shots. after that you'll start seeing problems with them. With lenses, make sure the glass is clean. No scratchs, no fungus. (fungus spreads so don't ever buy a lens with fungus no matter how cheap it is) Make sure the aperture works focusing is smooth.
2. The brand of camera does limit what lenses you can use on it. the major brands / mount types are Canon, Nikon, Sony+Minolta, Olympus+Panasonic (4/3rds), Micro 4/3rds. They are generally not interchangable with each other. (you can get adapters but they limit functionality and in some cases focus range) 3rd party lenses like tamron Sigma Tonkina can be bought it different mounts.
3. It depends a lot on the photographer and what you like to shot. a 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4 is very popular. Also a mid range zoom something like 17-50mm or 28-70mm is pretty useful. The lens that's on my camera the most is a 28-70mm.
4. I have a Fujifilm S2 pro DSLR so yes. Although it is Nikon Mount.. and I wouldn't recommend that particular camera. The Sony Alphas are pretty popular, and have lot of lenses available. I also like the Panasonic Lumix DMC-G2 for how small it is. (it has no mirror, so technically it's not a DSLR, but it does have interchangeable lenses)
5. Qualities I look for are - image quality at low light / high iso, frames per second, number of shot it can buffer, Autofocus speed, ease of use... (me and canon don't get along)
The number of megapixels really isn't a big deal unless you're doing huge prints, or huge crops. (or selling stock photography) I've printed 16 x 20 with 6MP and 20x30 with 10MP, and htey looked just fine. I haven't had the need to go bigger.
I just had a quick look online at the shops around me that I can purchase from (small town, so limited!), and here are the ones that are within my price range (starting from cheapest to priciest!)
Canon EOS 100D single lens - 646
Nikon D3000 18-55 mm and 70-300mm - 828
Canon 450D Twin Lens - 1168
Nikon D5000 Twin Lens - 1278
Otherwise both Nikons are available from an online store, not sure about added shipping costs, for slightly more, with similar lenses, but with a bag, tripod, and extended warranty.
photokina is in about 2 months, so there will be several new DSLRs announced soon. Nikon will probably have a D3100 (with 1080p video) and a replacement for the D90.
If you wait, you may be able to get a reasonably price used D90 as people upgrade to the new thing.
I was talking to my hubby about your post and he got all excited at the prospect of talking about cameras to someone new ... so instead of me interepreting his excitement, I let him loose at my keyboard and this is what you get:
"You've got some good info already, so I'll keep this brief.
I'm a working pro photog, so my viewpoint is possibly a bit different, but with that in mind I have some strong opinions. Keep that in mind - they are just opinions.
1. Yes. I would be very wary of a second-hand body, but there are some great deals out there for "unwanted gifts" and such. The info about 20-30K shutter cycles seems low to me (I shoot about triple that each year), but I would be careful of any entry-level body with over 100 000 shutter activations. Glass on the other hand can last years, and doesn't wear out in quite the same way. With any second-hand gear you need to check it over carefully for signs of impact - impact damage can be hard to spot and may not be externally visible. It can cause mirrors and sensors to misalign, lens elements to slip, AF (auto focus) to malfunction, and a host of other things. The main thing to do is test your likely purchase thoroughly prior to committing, and look real close at the test shots for edge-to-edge sharpness and the like. A better way is to buy through a dealer that checks all their second-hand gear and warranties it.
2. The brand is important. Some brands make some great electronics but have a limited range of glass available. Also, some gear simply isn't made for some brands (PocketWizard and Radio Poppers, for example, only work with Nikon and Canon). What you need to realise is that you are not making a one-off purchase - you are buying into a system. So pick the system that feels right for you.
3. Essential lenses? Depends what you're shooting. Not so long ago, a 50mm prime was considered the "standard" lens, or essential kit. I still suggest it as a valuable asset. Great for street photography and portraiture. Not so great for landscapes (though the challenge can be fun). They are fast, light, and sharp as a tack. I spent three weeks in Japan and did not not take my 50mm off my camera the whole time. I probably wouldn't do that now, but it worked excellently and I don't regret making that choice. These days I'd probably take a bag full of lenses, or maybe a 24-70 f/2.8 if I was travelling light. I will say that some photogs I know chose their brand based on one single lens they wanted. So keep that in mind.
4. No. Nikon and Canon are great. I have shot and owned both, and would happily shoot either one. Nothing else currently comes close, due to a range of issues. Sony may be a close 3rd, but lacks some features, lacks the range of available glass, and lacks support from other manufacturers of accessories. And we won’t even discuss Leica and the like – the expense is prohibitive even for most professionals.
5. They are all pretty much the same. It’s the glass that matters. Entry level bodies are plastic, but have much the same technology inside as the pro bodies. They may not be able to take as many frames per second, and they may not have as many pixels, or as high ISO settings, but even the most basic, cheapest entry-level body is better than the best pro body of 6 years ago, in regards to what it can do. More expensive bodies have better weather sealing, metal (magnesium) chassis, and a few more features that you probably won’t use anyway. The glass is where you want to spend your money, because that’s what you’ll still be using in 5 years when the body is no longer suitable for anything more than a paperweight. You’re better off with a $500 body and a $2k lens, than a $2k body and a $500 lens. That doesn’t mean you need to spend $2k on a body – you can get great prime lenses for as little as $120 (for a Canon f/1.8 for example), that will do much better than the rubbish kit lenses they try to up-sell to you.
I hope that helps. Good luck!"
I love how he likes to "keep things brief" :P For the record, I'm still running at Canon 400D but I have three lens sitting on my desk at the moment ... my main lens is a 50 mm prime lens (f/1.4 - so the better version of what my hubby mentioned up there ... I was using the f1/8 for a long time until hubby gave me his old lens) ... the other lens I love dearly is my 60 mm macro (around $800 ish) ... just for fun, I occasionally use a wide angle lens 10 - 22 mm but this is more that it doesn't fit on hubby's 1D so I've adopted it ... zoom wise, I very rarely use the kit lens zoon that came with it, but instead steal the 70 - 200 mm f/2.8 from hubby's camera bag ;)
And as for why I have Canon? Because my hubby has them ... I'm sure if he'd been running Nikon at the time, I would be here talking Nikon to you too :) So my justification for why Canon is listed in his response above :)
The D70 was rated for 25k shutter actuations (the last entery level camera I bought). After a little more research it looks like new entery level Nikons are now rated for about 50k. sure you can get more - but if it's used and has 40k actuations on it, I'd probably leave it alone.
if you are looking at the D5000 for over $1200 with 2 lenses do yourself a favor, get the D90 with the single kit lens.
The D5000 will need AF-S lenses and can't use the CLS system... the two lenses will be the 18-55 and 55-200 OR you can get the D90 that is better in everyway and have a way better single kit lens of 18-105mm. Cheaper lenses going forward and cheaper flashes/setups.... in the long run you will save TONS of money on the D90 vs D5000 for similar start up cost.
Hon, I've had to steer clear of the Nikon's you've mentioned as they are really heavy & the bodies are way too big for my hands...don't stress too much though, you've been doing a really great job!
Okay, just need some clarification. What is the CLS system Travis? Unfortunately, the Nikon D90 single kit lens is outside of what I can afford!
I am finding all this talk about different types of lenses etc quite overwhelming!
After being into the shop and talking to the lady, I think I am leaning towards the Nikon D3000, because after I purchase a second battery, maybe an extended warranty, and a filter, it will take me pretty close to what I can afford.....
Another question - The D3000 comes with a 18-55mm Nikon lens, and a 70-300mm Tamron lens. Does the difference in brand make much difference in quality?
Also, there was no mention of any f/numbers on the lenses, so could that vary, and make a difference in quality?
BD - I love the way the Nikons feel in my hands! The Nikon I have now is quite chunky and heavy, and I love it!
I'm not a pro photographer and therefore don't know all the technical stuff, but I've just bought my first SLR (Nikon D5000) so I'll ave a go at answering some of your questions!
1. I would buy secondhand lenses, but I was planning on buying a secondhand SLR but having spoken to the man in the shop, I wouldn't, at least not for Nikon...he told me that with Nikon bodies, if you buy them secondhand, they tend to break the day after the warranty runs out...
2. Everyone else has answered this :P
3. Not a clue, I'm planning on getting one zoom one and a macro one to go with the one I have now just so I can have more of a range.
4. Nope, simply because you're buying into a brand for life and these are two major, trusted brands with many accessories.
5. Not a clue, but I love the pictures mine takes! xD
I really need to learn more about all of this stuff xD I was debating whether to buy the camera that I did or the Canon equivelent. I felt them both in my hands and still wasn't sure. In the end, I went for the Nikon D5000 because it has live view in every mode, including idiot mode...which the canon did not, and it has a screen which you can take out and turn around and stuff which I've found really useful! (and you can put the camera away with the screen facing into the camera so it doesn't get scratched)
We spoke to a number of friends who are photographers, then went into a store to get a feel for which camera we liked best, then bought it online for $400 less ;)
I'd echo some of the sentiments above - Koshi's husband's answer is excellent and very informative.
1) I'd go for a new body and kit lens, then second hand lens when building up your initial lens collection.
2) Canon and Nikon all the way - unrivalled collection of glass.
3) I think the kit lens is worth it initially because they are decent for a beginner and dirt cheap when bought with the body. I'd also get the the 50mm f/1.8 if you go for Canon because it's so cheap. I'd steer clear of a second third party zoom lens if they try to flog you one, because it will be substandard.
4) Same question as 2 really, so see that.
5) Nikons and Canons in similar price range are fairly similar, the most important thing is to go into a store and play around with the cameras to see what feels best (then buy online if it's cheaper!)
Then I'd pick up a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II from B&H for $415 after rebate. That lens is tons better than the 18-55mm kit lens. (don't get the VC version. the Vibration Control comes at the cost of reduced image quality)
And that'll set you up pretty nicely for a little over $800.
Then you can pick up a Nikkor 35mm f/1.8 DX AFS for around $200 at some point. (The Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D is nice and a lot cheaper, but it will not AutoFocus with the D3000)
I bought my Nikon d50 second hand on Craigslist and plan to buy a second hand d90 when the new model is announced (hopefully soon). All but one of my lenses (18-55, 70-300, 50 1.8, and Tokina 11-16 2.8) are second hand as well and I haven't had any issues.
Ok us Pentax user are always the minority... but a kx is a small DSRL body with access to every pentax lens ever made... canon and nikon cannot say that... with sr being built into the even that 50 year old M series lens for $20 has the same sr as a new lens. And you can get photos at very high ISO....
But if you are thinking Full Frame you need to go Nikon or Cannon as they make the only 'pro' camera worth their salt...
If I had $5,000 I go Nikon, if I had $8,000 I'd go Leica(but I am starting to rethink that), but honestly I might save $10k for a pentax 645D...
But really it is all what fits best in your hand... go handle some stuff... something will just fit...
I was just thinking too... if I was too do it all over again.. I might do an EVIL camera now... they make up 1/3rd the sales now in Japan... so it is only time until they hit NA en mass... micro 4/3 is an example... but the really nice small bodies are what appeals to me... anyways...
"body with access to every pentax lens ever made... canon and nikon cannot say that..."
Not quite true... early pentax cameras were M42 mount which will not mount on a modern Pentax camera. Pentax also has lenses for their medium format camera that won't fit a K-mount body. K-mount was introduced in 1975. Any Nikon F mount lens made after 1977 will fit any modern camera. Any Nikon F mount lens made after 1959 will fit the D40, D3000, D5000 and a few others... with slight modifications the old pre-1977 lenses will fit any Nikon DSLR.
But that's a tangent that is in now way related to the subject.
Josh - sorry, the numbers I quoted were in Australian dollars. I checked out amazon last night, and the same cameras cost a lot more, even for just the body. I wouldn't be able to afford to get anything off there!
I did find that I can get the same kit cheaper on ebay, which is where my (hopefully!) final question has sprung from!
Would you buy an imported camera if it saved $$? I am a bit wary for a few reasons, worried that it wont be genuine, and worried that the price difference might not be worth it if the camera/lens ever needs repair!
So, 800 american, is 913 Australian, then I need to pay for postage, and because I live in a remote area, I pay a lot lot more than elsewhere.
The kit that I said I can get for 828, is actually 725 American Dollars.
You really need to be careful about imported cameras. I' not so sure about how Nikon Australia works, but here in the USA, if you buy a grey market camera (meaning a camera that was not meant to be sold in the USA) you'll save 10 - 20%, but Nikon will not touch it if it needs repairs. So not only it the warranty no good, but even if you pay them, they will refuse to repair it.
So you may want to give Nikon customer service a call before you buy a lens from a country other than your own. (or perhaps someone who knows better can clarify that for you here)
Thanks for that Josh, there were a few similar options, with a slight variation in price with imported ones, but I am happy to pay slightly extra if it means paying it safe!
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2. A canon lens only fits on a canon, a nikon lens only fits on a nikon, etc, however you can buy sigma lens which are made for either, not to sure how to explain it, so in short yes, buying a particular brand camera determineds which brand lens you can buy.
3. no idea, I have two lens and want more.... this very much depends on what you want to do with it....
4. Yep, but I would not buy a sony
5. I looked at what I wanted to use it for, spoke with people who were doing what I wanted to do with it and found most of them were using the same camera so I bought that one.... if that makes sense......
1. I have bought several used SLRs and cameras. With cameras, find out how many shutter cycles it's had. (you can find it in the exif data of most DSLRs) Most consumer level DSLRs are rated for about 20 - 30k shots. after that you'll start seeing problems with them. With lenses, make sure the glass is clean. No scratchs, no fungus. (fungus spreads so don't ever buy a lens with fungus no matter how cheap it is) Make sure the aperture works focusing is smooth.
2. The brand of camera does limit what lenses you can use on it. the major brands / mount types are Canon, Nikon, Sony+Minolta, Olympus+Panasonic (4/3rds), Micro 4/3rds. They are generally not interchangable with each other. (you can get adapters but they limit functionality and in some cases focus range) 3rd party lenses like tamron Sigma Tonkina can be bought it different mounts.
3. It depends a lot on the photographer and what you like to shot. a 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4 is very popular. Also a mid range zoom something like 17-50mm or 28-70mm is pretty useful. The lens that's on my camera the most is a 28-70mm.
4. I have a Fujifilm S2 pro DSLR so yes. Although it is Nikon Mount.. and I wouldn't recommend that particular camera. The Sony Alphas are pretty popular, and have lot of lenses available. I also like the Panasonic Lumix DMC-G2 for how small it is. (it has no mirror, so technically it's not a DSLR, but it does have interchangeable lenses)
5. Qualities I look for are - image quality at low light / high iso, frames per second, number of shot it can buffer, Autofocus speed, ease of use... (me and canon don't get along)
The number of megapixels really isn't a big deal unless you're doing huge prints, or huge crops. (or selling stock photography) I've printed 16 x 20 with 6MP and 20x30 with 10MP, and htey looked just fine. I haven't had the need to go bigger.
Canon EOS 100D single lens - 646
Nikon D3000 18-55 mm and 70-300mm - 828
Canon 450D Twin Lens - 1168
Nikon D5000 Twin Lens - 1278
Otherwise both Nikons are available from an online store, not sure about added shipping costs, for slightly more, with similar lenses, but with a bag, tripod, and extended warranty.
If you wait, you may be able to get a reasonably price used D90 as people upgrade to the new thing.
"You've got some good info already, so I'll keep this brief.
I'm a working pro photog, so my viewpoint is possibly a bit different, but with that in mind I have some strong opinions. Keep that in mind - they are just opinions.
1. Yes. I would be very wary of a second-hand body, but there are some great deals out there for "unwanted gifts" and such. The info about 20-30K shutter cycles seems low to me (I shoot about triple that each year), but I would be careful of any entry-level body with over 100 000 shutter activations. Glass on the other hand can last years, and doesn't wear out in quite the same way. With any second-hand gear you need to check it over carefully for signs of impact - impact damage can be hard to spot and may not be externally visible. It can cause mirrors and sensors to misalign, lens elements to slip, AF (auto focus) to malfunction, and a host of other things. The main thing to do is test your likely purchase thoroughly prior to committing, and look real close at the test shots for edge-to-edge sharpness and the like. A better way is to buy through a dealer that checks all their second-hand gear and warranties it.
2. The brand is important. Some brands make some great electronics but have a limited range of glass available. Also, some gear simply isn't made for some brands (PocketWizard and Radio Poppers, for example, only work with Nikon and Canon). What you need to realise is that you are not making a one-off purchase - you are buying into a system. So pick the system that feels right for you.
3. Essential lenses? Depends what you're shooting. Not so long ago, a 50mm prime was considered the "standard" lens, or essential kit. I still suggest it as a valuable asset. Great for street photography and portraiture. Not so great for landscapes (though the challenge can be fun). They are fast, light, and sharp as a tack. I spent three weeks in Japan and did not not take my 50mm off my camera the whole time. I probably wouldn't do that now, but it worked excellently and I don't regret making that choice. These days I'd probably take a bag full of lenses, or maybe a 24-70 f/2.8 if I was travelling light. I will say that some photogs I know chose their brand based on one single lens they wanted. So keep that in mind.
4. No. Nikon and Canon are great. I have shot and owned both, and would happily shoot either one. Nothing else currently comes close, due to a range of issues. Sony may be a close 3rd, but lacks some features, lacks the range of available glass, and lacks support from other manufacturers of accessories. And we won’t even discuss Leica and the like – the expense is prohibitive even for most professionals.
5. They are all pretty much the same. It’s the glass that matters. Entry level bodies are plastic, but have much the same technology inside as the pro bodies. They may not be able to take as many frames per second, and they may not have as many pixels, or as high ISO settings, but even the most basic, cheapest entry-level body is better than the best pro body of 6 years ago, in regards to what it can do. More expensive bodies have better weather sealing, metal (magnesium) chassis, and a few more features that you probably won’t use anyway. The glass is where you want to spend your money, because that’s what you’ll still be using in 5 years when the body is no longer suitable for anything more than a paperweight. You’re better off with a $500 body and a $2k lens, than a $2k body and a $500 lens. That doesn’t mean you need to spend $2k on a body – you can get great prime lenses for as little as $120 (for a Canon f/1.8 for example), that will do much better than the rubbish kit lenses they try to up-sell to you.
I hope that helps. Good luck!"
I love how he likes to "keep things brief" :P For the record, I'm still running at Canon 400D but I have three lens sitting on my desk at the moment ... my main lens is a 50 mm prime lens (f/1.4 - so the better version of what my hubby mentioned up there ... I was using the f1/8 for a long time until hubby gave me his old lens) ... the other lens I love dearly is my 60 mm macro (around $800 ish) ... just for fun, I occasionally use a wide angle lens 10 - 22 mm but this is more that it doesn't fit on hubby's 1D so I've adopted it ... zoom wise, I very rarely use the kit lens zoon that came with it, but instead steal the 70 - 200 mm f/2.8 from hubby's camera bag ;)
And as for why I have Canon? Because my hubby has them ... I'm sure if he'd been running Nikon at the time, I would be here talking Nikon to you too :) So my justification for why Canon is listed in his response above :)
The D5000 will need AF-S lenses and can't use the CLS system... the two lenses will be the 18-55 and 55-200 OR you can get the D90 that is better in everyway and have a way better single kit lens of 18-105mm. Cheaper lenses going forward and cheaper flashes/setups.... in the long run you will save TONS of money on the D90 vs D5000 for similar start up cost.
I am finding all this talk about different types of lenses etc quite overwhelming!
After being into the shop and talking to the lady, I think I am leaning towards the Nikon D3000, because after I purchase a second battery, maybe an extended warranty, and a filter, it will take me pretty close to what I can afford.....
Another question - The D3000 comes with a 18-55mm Nikon lens, and a 70-300mm Tamron lens. Does the difference in brand make much difference in quality?
Also, there was no mention of any f/numbers on the lenses, so could that vary, and make a difference in quality?
BD - I love the way the Nikons feel in my hands! The Nikon I have now is quite chunky and heavy, and I love it!
1. I would buy secondhand lenses, but I was planning on buying a secondhand SLR but having spoken to the man in the shop, I wouldn't, at least not for Nikon...he told me that with Nikon bodies, if you buy them secondhand, they tend to break the day after the warranty runs out...
2. Everyone else has answered this :P
3. Not a clue, I'm planning on getting one zoom one and a macro one to go with the one I have now just so I can have more of a range.
4. Nope, simply because you're buying into a brand for life and these are two major, trusted brands with many accessories.
5. Not a clue, but I love the pictures mine takes! xD
I really need to learn more about all of this stuff xD I was debating whether to buy the camera that I did or the Canon equivelent. I felt them both in my hands and still wasn't sure. In the end, I went for the Nikon D5000 because it has live view in every mode, including idiot mode...which the canon did not, and it has a screen which you can take out and turn around and stuff which I've found really useful! (and you can put the camera away with the screen facing into the camera so it doesn't get scratched)
I hope this helps!
1) I'd go for a new body and kit lens, then second hand lens when building up your initial lens collection.
2) Canon and Nikon all the way - unrivalled collection of glass.
3) I think the kit lens is worth it initially because they are decent for a beginner and dirt cheap when bought with the body. I'd also get the the 50mm f/1.8 if you go for Canon because it's so cheap. I'd steer clear of a second third party zoom lens if they try to flog you one, because it will be substandard.
4) Same question as 2 really, so see that.
5) Nikons and Canons in similar price range are fairly similar, the most important thing is to go into a store and play around with the cameras to see what feels best (then buy online if it's cheaper!)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B002P8CZ3A/sr=8-1/qid=1279719918/ref=olp_tab_new?ie=UTF8&coliid=&me=&qid=1279719918&sr=8-1&seller=&colid=&condition=new
Then I'd pick up a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II from B&H for $415 after rebate. That lens is tons better than the 18-55mm kit lens. (don't get the VC version. the Vibration Control comes at the cost of reduced image quality)
And that'll set you up pretty nicely for a little over $800.
Then you can pick up a Nikkor 35mm f/1.8 DX AFS for around $200 at some point. (The Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D is nice and a lot cheaper, but it will not AutoFocus with the D3000)
But if you are thinking Full Frame you need to go Nikon or Cannon as they make the only 'pro' camera worth their salt...
If I had $5,000 I go Nikon, if I had $8,000 I'd go Leica(but I am starting to rethink that), but honestly I might save $10k for a pentax 645D...
But really it is all what fits best in your hand... go handle some stuff... something will just fit...
Not quite true... early pentax cameras were M42 mount which will not mount on a modern Pentax camera. Pentax also has lenses for their medium format camera that won't fit a K-mount body. K-mount was introduced in 1975. Any Nikon F mount lens made after 1977 will fit any modern camera. Any Nikon F mount lens made after 1959 will fit the D40, D3000, D5000 and a few others... with slight modifications the old pre-1977 lenses will fit any Nikon DSLR.
But that's a tangent that is in now way related to the subject.
(sorry Zephan)
I did find that I can get the same kit cheaper on ebay, which is where my (hopefully!) final question has sprung from!
Would you buy an imported camera if it saved $$? I am a bit wary for a few reasons, worried that it wont be genuine, and worried that the price difference might not be worth it if the camera/lens ever needs repair!
The kit that I said I can get for 828, is actually 725 American Dollars.
So you may want to give Nikon customer service a call before you buy a lens from a country other than your own. (or perhaps someone who knows better can clarify that for you here)