Shopping for lenses

December 29th, 2012
I intend to buy one or two new lenses this year for my Nikon D2x, but I do not know what to look for, how to compare and contrast good versus not as good etc. So, would any of you lovely people please explain what to look for etc? As I literally do not have a clue :D
December 29th, 2012
I *just* got my full-frame camera yesterday! To go with it I got a Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8, which, I hear, is a must-have lens. I'm eyeing a Nikon 16-35mm or Tokina 16-28mm next. I like the super-wide angles, but they aren't for everyone. You may also want to consider the Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 vr ii if you want a telephoto. I would like that lens, but will be waiting a while.
December 29th, 2012
...and that didn't answer your question so much as just tell you what I've researched and believe to be good lenses. :)
December 29th, 2012
Your camera uses a crop sensor and has an autofocus motordrive, so you have *lots* of options to choose from.

What's your budget? What lens(es) do you have now? Are you looking for a single walk around lens, a wide angle, or a telephoto? A portrait lens?

If you're planning on upgrading your camera to a full frame (the D3* or D600), avoid the DX lenses, as they'll be useless to you on the full frame upgrade down the line.

For a walkaround, I can recommend the Nikon 18-200 DX f/3.5-5.6 (inexpensive), or the Nikon 28-300mm FX f/3.5-5.6... I'm saving up for the latter at the moment.

For a wide angle portrait zoom, the Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 cannot be beaten... but it's expensive (~$2500).

If you're looking for a telephoto zoom, you're in luck... Nikon just announced a 70-200mm f/4 VR lens at 1/2 the price, 1/2 the size, and 1/2 the weight of their stunning top of the line 70-200mm f/2.8. The VR will compensate for the slower shutter speed than the f/2.8 would provide, but it's not the best when you really do need a faster shutter speed, such as sports, action, and pet shots. I think the new lens comes in around $1400 retail, so expect to see it around $1250 street.

If you don't have a fast 50mm lens already, grab the Nikon 50mm f/1.8D... it's around $250. If you have $200 extra, grab the Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.4. It may not sound like much, but that will give you an extra stop to work with, allowing you to work in 1/2 the light, or get a shot at 1/2 the exposure length. It's newer technology, and a little sharper. (My older 50mm 1.4D is a little too noisy for my taste.)

If you're on a budget, a good wide-to-telephoto zoom is the Nikon 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5D, I think you'd enjoy that one.

Generally:

- VR is going to go a *long* way to giving you steadier hand held shots.
- ED will give you nice clean shots, without sun flare. This is critical for shooting sunsets and sunrises.
- DX will only work on your crop frame camera... spend the extra $ (and get the extra quality) for FX lenses if you're going to upgrade to a full frame anytime in the next 3-5 years.
- IF focuses internally, meaning the lens barrel doesn't move when you focus. This is essential if you want to use a split ND filter, as IF will keep your split ND's horizon level as you focus.
- non-AFS lenses *will* work on your camera, since you have a built in autofocus motor. They're also lighter, and cheaper.
- G class lenses will work on your camera, since you have a digital camera capable of communicating aperture between the camera and lens. These lenses don't have an aperture ring, so they require digital. They're in no way inferior. (The 70-200mm f/2.8 is a G lens, for example.)
- Buy newer lenses over older ones. The optics technology will always be better than an older lens (at the same general quality and price level), since those optics are made with advanced technology as well.

Hope this helps, let me know your paramters and I'll see if I can help narrow down your choices.

Me, I'm planning on buying the Nikon 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6 for a walkaround lens, and the Nikon 16-35mm f/4 for landscapes.
December 29th, 2012
@cmc1200 Thank you :) Its all good info ;)
December 29th, 2012
@cameronknowlton Wow Cameron, now that is a huge amount of information. Thank you so much, I am very very grateful for the time and effort you have taken to explain that all to me..
You should be writing guides :)

Thank you again from my heart :)
December 29th, 2012
@cameronknowlton I am now going to read and re-read everything you have written and have a good think about which direction to head in :)
December 29th, 2012
you're welcome Michelle... best to reread the AF-S and G class lens descriptions, I just corrected those (oops).
December 29th, 2012
Ken Rockwell has a decent Nikon cheat sheet for their letter codes here: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/nikortek.htm
December 30th, 2012
Hey Michelle, Season Greetings.... Depending on what you want to do.. On my Nikon D800E, i have the 70-200 2.8 VRII, 85 mm 1.4, 105 macro and the WA16-35, for the WA(wide Angle) you dont need a fast lens f4 is a good enough, lens for walk around . Having said that, what is it you want photograph, macro, Landscape, Street
for me i like to use my 85mm for tight shots.I also love Macro as you know, So the macro is a fav of mine..for walk around either the 85mm/16-35 mm, I also do alot of testing of cameras and bodies right now the 70-200 F4 is a worthy lens light very good optics and IQ is sweet.. any info that you need let me know
December 30th, 2012
@cameronknowlton Cameron, thank you again. I really appreciate all of your help. I have now copied this onto a word doc so I can save it all :)
December 30th, 2012
@eddyj Thank you Eddy :) Very insightful :)
December 31st, 2012
Hi Michelle, I found Nikon's lens glossary, this is a better source than Ken Rockwell: http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/lens/glossary.htm
December 31st, 2012
@cameronknowlton Thank you once again Cameron. Can I ask, I see different f values on the lenses you mention, what does the f value mean in comparrison to the quality of the lens?
December 31st, 2012
Hi Michelle, the f stop doesn't itself identify the quality of the lens. However, lower minimum f-stop numbers allow faster exposures and shallower depth of field, which is difficult and expensive to attain. Therefore, the quality required is higher.

An f/5.6 lens is 'normal'; an f/2.8 is great for portraits and moderately low light. An f/1.4 is extremely fast, and can take photos in very low light without a flash (great for distance where a flash is ineffective), and provides beautiful soft DOF for portraits.
December 31st, 2012
... Also, some zooms have a fixed minimum f-stop (e.g. f/4) throughout their zoom range (preferred), while some change their aperture as you zoom (e.g. F/3.5-5.6). You'll pay more for a constant aperture, but they're easier to work with, since your DOF isn't changing as you zoom and compose.
December 31st, 2012
@cameronknowlton Thank you so much for explaining.. I have learned more about photogrpahy from you in this post than I have from other outlets...

Sorry to ask so many questions.
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