I ordered an infrared filter made for outdoor shots (950nm) but couldn't see anything through the camera at all when it's attached to my normal lens. Anyone have any tips? Do I need to attach it to a different lens for better results or should I just return it? Thanks for your help! :)
First thing, you should really shoot under the sun :)
Set your camera on a tripod
DON'T ATTACH YOUR IR FILTER first
on AF mode, focus first on what you want to shoot, when you're all done focusing
that's the time to ATTACH YOUR IR FILTER then...
shift it to MF (Manual mode)
then your settings should be
shutter (long exposure the better.. 30secs ) :)
Aperture f5 is ok
ISO... 400-800 (depends on you)
then SHOOT :)
Infrared filters block all visible light and only pass Infrared light. And since you can't see infrared with the naked eye, you won't be able to see anything when the IR filter is attached to your camera.
You'll need to us a tripod for IR. First compose your shot, and set the focusing. Then set it to manual focus and install the IR filter. Then take your shot. Another thing to watch is your cameras meter only meters visible light and not IR light, so the meter will be off. You may need to set it to manual exposure, take a guess at the metering.. (It's gonna be long, maybe 10 seconds at f/8 for daylight - this will very from camera to camera depending on IR sensitivity and the strength of the 'hotmirror') Then correct the exposure and try again.
You'll also want to set the white balance manually with the IR filter attached. White balance of a patch of green grass for best results. You'll need to get the exposure right before the white balance is accepted, so it may take a few tries to get it. But don't give up, IR can be frustrating, but it's fun. Good luck!
I'm just curious, does anyone know how these things work? Because if I remember correctly cameras generally place Infrared Filters (the kind that block IR light) in front of the CCD to ensure only visible light gets through. Shouldn't both cancel all light out, or is there a gap where neither cancel out light?
No success yet, but still plugging along...perhaps my massive headache from too much imbibing last evening is partly at fault...I do have CS5, and did get to see a miniscule image after processing a little bit, but the majority of my images are still coming out black. I tried to do the custom WB thing without the filter attached...now that I came back and reread your advice about having the filter attached while doing the patch of green, I still have hope.
And I have no idea, Yann!! Maybe the self-proclaimed nerdy dude The Steve could help? ;)
@unionofv - Cameras do have 'hotmirror' filters that block out a significant amount of infrared light, but they don't block it all. With an infrared filter and long exposure times (10 seconds+), you can get infrared photos with out any modifications to the camera.
By removing the hotmirror (which I have done to one of my cameras) you gain anywhere from 8 - 15 stops worth of IR sensitivity, so you can have very fast shutter speeds.
@nicklynne - The camera just needs more IR light. Do not rely on the camera's light meter; It will not be accurate. Set your camera to manual exposure and set your shutter speed to like 30 seconds @ F5.6. If it's still dark, bump up the ISO to 800 and try again. Keep lowing the F-stop, extending the shutter speed and increasing the ISO until you get something.
@nicklynne - You're right -- that filter is too strong, what I said above, my not help. That filter you're using doesn't start allowing light until it's way into the IR spectrum, so it even blocks some IR. You probably won't get great results with this filter unless you modify your camera to remove the hotmirror. (but this would negativity impact the cameras ability to take normal images)
For best results you'll want a filter that starts allowing light from around 700nm. This would be Kodak Wratten 89B, Schott RG695, B+W 092, Cokin P007 or a Hoya R72. (The Hoya R72 is most popular)
You can try adding to your exposure time, but still, the results will probably won't be great.
@sudweeks - Thanks again, Josh, for all your help - if it's still not working tomorrow, I'll exchange it for a lower one, since I have nooooo plans of performing surgery on my camera. :-)
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First thing, you should really shoot under the sun :)
Set your camera on a tripod
DON'T ATTACH YOUR IR FILTER first
on AF mode, focus first on what you want to shoot, when you're all done focusing
that's the time to ATTACH YOUR IR FILTER then...
shift it to MF (Manual mode)
then your settings should be
shutter (long exposure the better.. 30secs ) :)
Aperture f5 is ok
ISO... 400-800 (depends on you)
then SHOOT :)
You'll need to us a tripod for IR. First compose your shot, and set the focusing. Then set it to manual focus and install the IR filter. Then take your shot. Another thing to watch is your cameras meter only meters visible light and not IR light, so the meter will be off. You may need to set it to manual exposure, take a guess at the metering.. (It's gonna be long, maybe 10 seconds at f/8 for daylight - this will very from camera to camera depending on IR sensitivity and the strength of the 'hotmirror') Then correct the exposure and try again.
You'll also want to set the white balance manually with the IR filter attached. White balance of a patch of green grass for best results. You'll need to get the exposure right before the white balance is accepted, so it may take a few tries to get it. But don't give up, IR can be frustrating, but it's fun. Good luck!
-Josh
that's the MF mode from your lens itself :)
and try this tutorial for processing your photos....
http://www.nature-photography-central.com/Digital_Infrared_Photography_Tutorials.html
enjoy exploring nicole... =)
And I have no idea, Yann!! Maybe the self-proclaimed nerdy dude The Steve could help? ;)
By removing the hotmirror (which I have done to one of my cameras) you gain anywhere from 8 - 15 stops worth of IR sensitivity, so you can have very fast shutter speeds.
Good luck!
For best results you'll want a filter that starts allowing light from around 700nm. This would be Kodak Wratten 89B, Schott RG695, B+W 092, Cokin P007 or a Hoya R72. (The Hoya R72 is most popular)
You can try adding to your exposure time, but still, the results will probably won't be great.