OK... first of, I'm really new to Macro shots. Always wanted to, and now, I was able to buy a 100mm Tokina 2.8 macro lens. My initial challenge is to focus. I'm focusing on manual... but, sometimes, it's really hard to focus on what I want to focus on. It's quite easy to lose focus. Any tips?
Example... I was trying to take a shot of a dragon fly, but I can't seem to focus the whole insect, rather, only parts of its body. In some photos I see here, the whole insect are ultra-sharp... How do you do it?
you will find that, the way to get the full image in focus and not just a part is a technique called focus stacking, its similar to the technique used in hdr but taking multiple photos focused on different areas of the object you are taking. There is software out there that merges the photos together just google focus stacking software. and here is a wiki article that explains it a bit better http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking
I doubt any such "focus stacking" technique's going to work with something like a dragonfly... if you're in daylight, can you not just up the aperture a bit, to get a larger depth of field?
f2.8 will give you a very select, well defined depth of field, so in a dragonfly, only teeny tiny bits of him will be in focus. Take a look at my very last shot of the Smurf and the Legolady. The lego lady is only in focus.
If your light is good enough, then crank the f-stop up to say f8.0 or even f11.0 and you will notice that more of your dragonfly will be in focus, because your lens will be open for a longer period and let more of that wonderful daylight in. If you cranked it up to f22.0 then Hooley Dooley, the whole dragonfly maybe in focus, but you'll need super steady hands for that kind of shot.
The other option and one that I apply often in my macros, is using the flash even bright sunlight. This helps you crank that f-stop and still keep a fast shutter speed.
Some of my macros have been f22 to f45 with the flash, the whole bug in focus and happy days!
these series of shots were taken at f5.6, f11 and then f22. But they do a fair job at showing how the depth of field can change with adjustments to the f-stop.
Thank you all so much for the replies. First, I thought that my macro lens has a defect... but based on your replies, it really seems to be that way. The focus stacking seems to be truly new to me, so, I would try the other techniques first, then, I will try the focus stacking. :D
I've learned a lot today from your replies. Thanks again! :)
Try some test shots - use a tape measure or ruler, mount the camera on a tripod. Focus on one of the numbers, then use different apertures to find your dof with that lens at the different settings.
Ive found that if you are taking a photo of a still object, increase the f stop to 16-22 and then decrease the shutter speed to like 1/4. NB. Im just using these numbers as an example.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focus_stacking
If your light is good enough, then crank the f-stop up to say f8.0 or even f11.0 and you will notice that more of your dragonfly will be in focus, because your lens will be open for a longer period and let more of that wonderful daylight in. If you cranked it up to f22.0 then Hooley Dooley, the whole dragonfly maybe in focus, but you'll need super steady hands for that kind of shot.
The other option and one that I apply often in my macros, is using the flash even bright sunlight. This helps you crank that f-stop and still keep a fast shutter speed.
Some of my macros have been f22 to f45 with the flash, the whole bug in focus and happy days!
Experiment with that Mr Drinski!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52616213@N08/5380121242/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52616213@N08/5379518303/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52616213@N08/5379518489/
these series of shots were taken at f5.6, f11 and then f22. But they do a fair job at showing how the depth of field can change with adjustments to the f-stop.
I've learned a lot today from your replies. Thanks again! :)
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=58028