This is actually my first sunset on 365 and it didn't quite go to plan. Basically I tried to get too smart and ended up mucking up the focussing slightly so lost most of the shots (manual focus using hyperfocus distances). This one is just about passable.
I've never managed to understand the hyper-focal malarkey Kev so do explain it in simple terms for a simple bloke ...
Superb colours in this image, covers the whole tonal range.
@ch1ppy_m1nton Thanks Chippy. Right here goes - and I hope my understanding is correct.
As most of us are aware, for a any particular lens focal length, aperture, and image distance, there is a usable depth of field. Long focal lengths, wide apertures and short image distances give you really short dofs, whilst short focal lengths, narrow apertures and longer image distances give you really deep dofs.
So, imagine you have a dof and you 'move it back' by focussing so that the far point of the dof effectively is now just at infinity. The point at which you need to focus to achieve that is known as the hyperfocal point, and its important cos it's the optimal setting for getting the largest possible depth of field from the foreground up to infinity - perfect for landscapes, etc. Now all of this can be calculated (there's good apps for the iPhone for instance) so that you don't have to guess what to focus on in a landscape....unless you change something like I did.
By the way, hyperfocal distances can be remarkably short at reasonably narrow apertures and short focal lengths. At f11, 18mm, the hyperfocal distance is 1.57m - so if you focus at 1.6m, everything should be in reasonable focus from 1.12m to infinity. Compare to f2.8, 200mm, where the hyperfocal distance is 750m!
Superb colours in this image, covers the whole tonal range.
As most of us are aware, for a any particular lens focal length, aperture, and image distance, there is a usable depth of field. Long focal lengths, wide apertures and short image distances give you really short dofs, whilst short focal lengths, narrow apertures and longer image distances give you really deep dofs.
So, imagine you have a dof and you 'move it back' by focussing so that the far point of the dof effectively is now just at infinity. The point at which you need to focus to achieve that is known as the hyperfocal point, and its important cos it's the optimal setting for getting the largest possible depth of field from the foreground up to infinity - perfect for landscapes, etc. Now all of this can be calculated (there's good apps for the iPhone for instance) so that you don't have to guess what to focus on in a landscape....unless you change something like I did.
By the way, hyperfocal distances can be remarkably short at reasonably narrow apertures and short focal lengths. At f11, 18mm, the hyperfocal distance is 1.57m - so if you focus at 1.6m, everything should be in reasonable focus from 1.12m to infinity. Compare to f2.8, 200mm, where the hyperfocal distance is 750m!
Hope his helps!