Do some of the camera settings intimidate you? Do you want to learn how to develop your photography skills and learn how to use your camera effectively without always going back to the “auto” function? These challenges are for you!
These are designed for those experienced photographers to share their knowledge with others who are anxious to learn and improve their skills.
For the next two weeks we are going to work on manual focusing using “live view”.
On a DSLR, the live view setting is “WYSIWYG” (what you see is what you get).
When the live view is turned on, you will see the scene on the screen at the back of your camera rather than looking thru the viewfinder.
There are lots of reasons for using the live view feature – if your camera’s screen tilts, one of the best reasons is because this keeps you from having to crane your neck and lie down in the wet grass for low pov shots. And it makes it lots easier if you want to shoot something holding the camera way above your head. But it’s also great for many other things – and one of the benefits of using live view is that you can use manual focus very effectively.
On a canon, the live view is turned on and off by pressing the button just above and to the right of the screen labeled “start stop”. On the D3xxx and D5xxx series, the lever is around the single mode dial on the top right, push it and release it back in the direction of the arrow marked to turn on, and again to turn off. For the D7xxx, D750 and D8xx, it is a button on the back, bottom right, in the middle of the lever to set still or video. Press once to turn on, once to turn off. All are marked "Lv." If you're working with another type of DSLR, please check the manual that came with your camera.
Live view is used most effectively when your camera is on a tripod, or some other stable surface (it can be challenging to compose a shot and hold a heavy DSLR steady using live view while shooting handheld). And manual focusing also benefits from a stable surface, especially if you’re shooting macro.
So – with your camera on a tripod or other steady surface, and your live view switched on, switch your focus to “manual” and let’s get started.
First, select your subject and manually adjust the focus until it looks sharp on the screen. But how can you be sure it’s sharp? The screen is awfully small!
Well – on either a canon or a Nikon, if you press the little button with the + sign you can zoom in on the subject. On the canon if you push the button once, the image on the screen will be shown 5 times bigger; push the button again, and it will be 10 times bigger. The feature should work in a similar manner on the Nikon.
Now, what if the bit of your subject you want to focus on is no longer visible on the screen?
Push the + button again, and the image on the screen will return to the original size. Note the location of the white square on the screen. You can move this around by using the outside of the “set” button as a joystick. Move the square to be right over the bit of your subject you want to focus on. Now press the + button again. Now you can focus very carefully on a precise spot in your subject.
Practice focusing on different parts of your subject. Also, practice with different apertures. What do you like about the resulting images? What don’t you like? What do you think you need to do to improve the image?
As you’re working thru this challenge, remember that it’s a good opportunity for practicing other things you’ve learned through these challenges. Use the tips previously provided for shooting on a tripod, and experiment with aperture and shutter speed. Post any questions you have to this thread… and most importantly, have fun!
Here are a couple links that you might find helpful for this challenge.
@annied good for you for using manual focus a lot of the time... i struggle with that (sucky eyesight for one thing)... but i'm curious - what aspect of live view do you find challenging? i generally resist live view for "on the go" shooting... but when i'm using a tripod, i almost don't think twice about it!
@northy I rarely use a tripod - only lately have I started using it and didn't even think of live view to stop the neck crinks lol - I have much to learn - I struggle with eyesight too but find that easier through viewfinder for some reason - this will be a wonderful learning curve for me as most of my shooting is on the go :)
@annied I always use the viewfinder too but when using manual focus as Northy pointed out in this thread you can enlarge the image in the viewfinder and you will be amazed at how much that can actually help to make sure the image is in focus. Prior to trying this method I can't tell you how many times even when I chimped (looked at the image on the screen) after the picture was taken I thought it was in focus but once I put it on my computer screen I realized it wasn't as sharp of a focus as I like. Once I used this method my image quality improved. Try it & you will see
@myhrhelper thanks - yes I know what you mean about not as in focus as you would like - am looking forward to trying this out - didn't realise you could enlarge hahahaha - I am hopeless lol
@leestevo Manual Mode on the Exposure Dial lets you set Aperture and Shutter. Manual Focus Mode means that you have turned off all Auto Focus and you will focus the lens by turning the focus ring on the lens. There is no relation between the two, they address completely different things.
Personally, I almost invariably rely on the camera's auto focus (AF). I suspect most people do. The one reasonably common exception for me is shooting "real" macro on a tripod. And especially if I want to shoot "focus brackets" where you increase focus manually shot to shot by just a few millimeters and then stack them all in Photoshop or something similar to achieve a deep DoF that a single macro shot can't possibly achieve. Focus Stacking is the term if you want to google the technique. Live View is practically essential for this technique, because through-the-viewfinder you won't get the proper DoF display and especially to judge when you have moved on to the next few millimeters...
This topic has turned up at a perfect time. I got my new Canon this week and the first with live view. I did not know about the + sign and increasing view size. I was just using it as an aid to awkward angles.
Btw, I have just got round to the A1 servo shot. Am I too late to post it on the other discussion?
Frank I feel heartened to read that you say you almost invariably rely on the camera's autofocus. My Sony a6000 has a very fast autofocus. It also has 'direct manual focus' in which you first use autofocus and then top up with manual focus. But the shutter on this camera is so sensitive that I find I cannot hold my finger on it and use the manual focus without taking the shot before I want to take it.
@quietpurplehaze if you find the shutter too sensitive to hold down the focus for any length of time, you can try the "back button" focus lock/hold techniques. Look in your manual about customizing the C1 and C2 buttons.
That sounds a good tip -thank you, Frank. When I get my a6000 back from Sony (it developed a memory card read defect after only 3 months!) I'll have a look.
I used manual focus and live view to take my shot today. I think it could have been improved if I had used a higher f stop to get a slightly greater dof.
I Have an Olympus em5 which uses live view most of the time but I don't use manual focus unless the camera cannot focus for some reason such as in darkness.
@helenhelen I think this is very nice. As far as aperture in my opinion if you would use a very wide aperture (small F number) you could have focused on one small portion of the photo perhaps just the petal edge or center of a flower - these type of shots are especially fun to get using manual focus. Also if you narrowed the aperture you could have had more in focus - Perhaps you can go back and play with this some more and get different "looks" with the same subject?
@callymazoo actually you can enlarge while in live view before you take the photo to adjust focus not just after you take the photo. This helps alot
I used live view and manual focus, and zoomed in so I could focus on the very edges of the scales - I had no idea my camera could do this, so what a great challenge!
I had my camera set up on a tripod pointing towards the ground (I also discovered I can reverse the tripod so the camera is between the legs instead of above it) and used a 2-second shutter delay to avoid camera shake.
@sarahsthreads nicely done Sarah! This is exactly the type of situation that calls for manual focus :). Out of curiosity, is there a particular reason you used ISO 400? Most cameras can handle that with little degradation of quality. But, when you're shooting on a tripod, and speed doesn't matter, there's usually no reason why you couldn't go down to ISO 100 and a longer exposure.
@northy That's a good question! I had set up the camera at the edge of a shady area and just kind of automatically selected an ISO I thought would work based on metering handheld, but I could certainly have used a slower shutter speed and a lower ISO once I got the tripod set up. :)
@myhrhelper Thank you I will have more of a play as I now see that I could be so much more selective on focus by using manual. A good example of this is Sarah's photo above where the edges are crisp.
It's good to do these challenges even although I think I know this stuff because there is always more to learn
it took me a while to realise that in live view I have to have the camera on manual setting as it would not focus; is that correct? I forgot about playing to enlarge to check clarity but then I was not using a tripod and had to just judge. There is only so long a girl can take crouched at the foot of a crumbled stone wall - live view or not!
@callymazoo It's very pretty and the focus is excellent. AF works in Live View, not sure what you might have done with the settings if it didn't for you. But this challenge is all about minute manual focus adjustments. Many lenses today will even allow you to auto focus and them manually make small adjustments after the coarse focus is achieved.
@sarahsthreads Great pine cone! The 2 second shutter delay is an excellent idea with macro even on a tripod and in live view. Another idea when shooting through-the-viewfinder on a DSLR, not Live View which is this challenge of course, is Mirror Lock Up. The mirror is raised with the first shutter press and the shot is taken with the second, avoiding what people call "shutter shock" although it is caused by the mirror movement. Of course with Live View, the mirror is up from the start anyway. :)
I habitually use Liveview and the magnifying feature when shooting indoors and get good reliable results. This week I have been focusing on droplets
However, I do not find it easy when outdoors. Yesterday I went out in the early evening to try a long exposure and found that even in the lower light I was unable to see the Liveview very well. I also found that I had lost all ability to drive the magnifying section. This may have been the cold wind and fumbly fingers but I fear it was actually brain freeze due to the unfamiliar setting! Anyway both combined for a less than perfect focus, I think. I was on MF, as AF was not coping.
I think perhaps I need a field monitor but I would be pleased to know, how do others cope with squinty little screens in outdoor conditions.
@frankhymus I've never tried that, but just looked up how. I'm becoming very familiar with the custom functions menu - someone introduced me to back button focusing earlier this year and now I don't know that I could live without it. But I have to keep changing it back because it confuses everyone else in my family. :)
So does the mirror flipping up shake the camera a significant amount? I do so few macro/tripod shots that a lot of this is new for me!
@sarahsthreads Yes, mirror shock can be significant, especially for a large megapixel sensor. Indeed, it was one of the biggest problems with the initial Nikon D800 with its 36mp, improved significantly in the D810. The new Canon 5Ds with its 50mp sensor spent an inordinate amount of effort to cushion the shock, and by all reports, the camera is not out in the general market yet to try it myself, succeeded very well. See a little of the discussion here... http://www.dpreview.com/previews/canon-eos-5ds-sr
As you see, sometimes fewer megapixels can give you better "apparent" sharpness, more room for "slop" to be masked over.. There is absolutely no benefit to these monsters without the damping technology, and still they require good (and mindful) shooting technique hand-held.
I went out this morning early and tried to follow the instruction for this challenge. I'm so new at this that I'm not sure if I accomplished it or not. Suggestions?
@frankhymus That's really interesting...and makes me feel a bit better about my choice to not upgrade to a better camera body. I recently replaced my T2i with an SL1 - which is at best a side-grade rather than an upgrade. But it's so tiny and I keep pancake lenses on it and I can carry it everywhere so I use it more. :)
Here's another macro shot. I'm not quite as happy with this one - I stacked +10 and +4 filters on my 24mm lens and I think I just didn't have a deep enough depth of field to get the entire center of the flower in focus! But I have to say, the live view with magnification is really excellent for fine tuning focus on, for example, the edges of petals.
ISO100, f/2.8, 1/80s, 24mm, +10 and +4 macro filters.
@callymazoo I use the T5i, which as I understand it, is the same as the 700d. The camera setting does not have to be on the manual mode setting, but the lens switch for AF/MF does have to be in the MF setting.
@sarahsthreads The old adage - The best camera is the one you always carry with you! The SL1 is an interesting little DSLR, a distinct upgrade from the T2i, so don't sweat that.
The flower. This close, no matter your aperture, it will be difficult to get all the flower in focus, the DoF is only a few millimeters this close. If you want all the flower sharp, you'll have to "focus stack." Rather than go into detail on that, you can google the term. Live View, tripod and manual focus will all be used. 15-20 images each with a millimeter or two different focus, and then stack them in Photoshop.
@cdean1956 Many modern lenses will have an AF that you can then make hand manual small adjustments. The switch on the lens will have something like M/A rather than just A for this mode.
@callymazoo hey Cally... AF should work in live view for you... but you need to make sure that the square on the screen is over a part of the subject that has some contrast in it or it won't be able to find the focus, if you know what i mean...
I must say I was super impressed with using this method! I had no idea of how convenient it was. Thank you for all of your mentoring. I am feeling quite comfortable totally choosing my manual settings, and now manually focusing. The live view, and zooming in made it easy to get a good shot. For this collage I focused on the right pink daisy in one shot, and the left pink daisy in the other.
OK, I finally had a quiet moment to concentrate on this technique (which, of course, required a consult of the camera manual). My camera has two ways to accomplish this task. I selected the "touch screen" method (mostly so I don't have to fuss with settings later). The shot is not inspired, but I was very impressed by the extreme level of detail which I could see on the leaf of the lavender plant. You can even visualize the white "star" shapes on the single leaf. Working with a tripod is very fussy, for me, but I am totally delighted to learn this technique. Thanks! PS... I recommend a zoom, because the details are really amazing. :)
@sarahsthreads For sure! I just mention it, so if you see it again it will ring a bell... If you look just above at @Dinah two shots of the two pink flowers, they would be a candidate for the technique to get both flowers in focus on one image...
One more, because there are too many signs of spring in my yard these days and this is fun!
ISO 100, f/2.8, 1/125s, 40mm lens (no macro filters this time).
This one was harder because the branches of the forsythia bush kept swaying in the breeze, so zooming in to focus was tough since it was a moving target. But I did get some decent shots, and I liked this one best from a composition standpoint. :)
I found this challenge interesting as I have always had trouble manually focusing & was able to focus much better with live view. (I wear glasses & am short-sighted)
It feels a bit strange not looking through the view finder.
I found that I could also see if I was over or underexposed quite easily.
As an aside I wanted to use Flash on this subject as the babies face was in heavy shadow and so was the side of the mother's head - but it blew out too much. Then I remembered that I can use Flash Exposure Compensation. I knew it was there but had never used it. So I fiddled around with that as well. Two learnings for the price of one :)
This is the shot that I was happiest with. I have focused on the Mother's Eye & used the Flash at -2.
@jennymallett Excellent Jenny. A lovely shot. Focus is great, and the use of the flash nice. We'll talk about flash, compensation and modes later in the CSC series, so you are ahead of us on that. And your comment about judging exposure is right on. As was said in the introduction, you are looking at exactly what your shot will look like when in Live View, since you are looking directly at the sensor data, not the light before it hits the sensor.
Tried this challenge today and I have to say...it's the coolest thing I've learned from 365!! Just too cool! f/5.6 1/180 auto ISO (2800). I could have probably gotten the ISO down but it was kind of rainy and cold and I didn't feel like standing in the rain for that long! And, I realized that I have an older model 50mm lens that I don't often use because I have to manually focus and the live view works with that lens. I think it's going to get lots of use now!
@dianen beautifully done! i'm so glad you found this tip useful :) btw, were you working with a tripod? because if so, you definitely could have dropped the ISO to 100 and just gone with the longer shutter speed...
I know this is not a very interesting subject matter, but I thought it would be good practice for this weeks manual challenge. This was the first time I have every taken my camera out of auto focus and had a crack at manual.
I have extremely dodgy eyes, so have avoided manual focus until now. I can't compare against a Canon or Nikon camera, but my Lumix GH4 as this funky green tinge that appears when you have the camera in manual focus which helps you to know when your shot is in focus….. In bloody credible.
This shot was not on a tripod it was taken on the fly at the park with my grandson yesterday.
@deborah63 Nice view Debbie. Good job with the challenge. Your GH4 is a "mirrorless" camera, and so, unlike a DSLR with a mirror, your (electronic) viewfinder and your "Live View" (on the LCD) both use the same system, directly from the sensor data. But the bigger screen certainly can assist, especially if you need to zoom in to focus. The touch screen on your camera (in AF and I know that is not this week's exercise) is also nice to set the focus area.
I'm having a little better luck with things that stay put, but had the tripod aimed at the feeder and camera focused at the front of the circle they stand on and settings at ISO 1600 f5.6 and 1/1000 when she stopped again I shot this one. Best I've had so far on something moving. Most of my shots are taken while walking so I don't usually have the tripod, but did like the way it worked. Any other suggestions?
@milaniet hi Milanie... this came out lovely! i do think that the live view / manual focus method really does work best on things that aren't moving... manual focus is tricky to begin with - manual focus in live view while hand-holding the camera would be beyond my capability for sure! i hear you about mostly taking photos on the go, and i don't think this technique (live view / manual focus) will serve you well for that... think of this technique as something in your tool box that is now available to you when you need it :)
Thanks so much for this subject. Being short-sighted I always have trouble deciding if my subject is perfectly focused, and never thought about using the live view. Elementary really! I'm pretty happy with the way this came out, although working in the sun made it a bit tricky.
Aperture priority, F5, Auto ISO 160, 53mmFL. Switched off IS. changed to MF. Got the manual out!
Did some practice shots of various things, but decided on these bottles as could hone in to check sharpness more easily. Havnt done this before and had to figure it out. Can see the advantage of checking on close up after focusing manually.
However my eyes are not the best and it was still hard to judge the best sharpness. Also I find looking at a screen in the bright light quite difficult although I realise I could tilt it in this mode. The view finder has the adjustment for my eye which is great.
I couldn't get sharpness throughout the shot, it was either the face or the other two bottles. Probably I was too near and should have had a narrower focal range? Will definitely try this again. Any comments appreciated.
@pitasmum great job with the focus here... and you seemed to have dealt with the light quite nicely! absolutely... this technique is made for those of us with challenged eyes :)
@jennywren the sharp focus seems to be on the bottle in the back... and yes - i think a smaller aperture might be the answer... you could also try focus-stacking and melding the images in photoshop... that's where you have the camera on a tripod and take several images where the only change you make between them is the point of focus... @frankhymus is likely better able to explain this technique than i...
@milaniet@northy as a fellow bird photographer, your efforts are right on the mark. I'm wondering if you could add AI servo (former challenge) to the mix as you have the stability of the tripod, a live view approximation, and the benefit of the anticipation of action in the vicinity
@jennywren@northy Focus Stacking - Well, a whole lot could be written on it, but take a number of shots focusing at different lengths, on a tripod, then load all the images up into one layer stack in Photoshop, highlight all the layers then Edit | Auto Align, and then Edit | Auto Blend (as a stack, not a panorama). That gives you the basics. More can be done, see some references above, but this usually is a good start, particularly if you have 10 or more images at slightly different lengths...
Was using live view and manual focus to catch the moon through the breaks in the clouds. Managed to get a sharp focus, but the clouds produced a diffuse focus as I pressed the release. I hope to get a better shot for this challenge tomorrow.
Love the live view approach - hadn't used it with this camera much - but I've found out it's ideal for things that stay put. My focusing is getting better - still not there yet, but did like the clarity of the raindrops that had just finished falling. Using ISO 800 (cloudy after the rain), 1/320 at f5.6. Any changes you can suggest?
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I manual focus most of the time but do find live view a challenge so will definitely join in
Live shooting would be a good technique to use. Can't wait to try it out.
Personally, I almost invariably rely on the camera's auto focus (AF). I suspect most people do. The one reasonably common exception for me is shooting "real" macro on a tripod. And especially if I want to shoot "focus brackets" where you increase focus manually shot to shot by just a few millimeters and then stack them all in Photoshop or something similar to achieve a deep DoF that a single macro shot can't possibly achieve. Focus Stacking is the term if you want to google the technique. Live View is practically essential for this technique, because through-the-viewfinder you won't get the proper DoF display and especially to judge when you have moved on to the next few millimeters...
Btw, I have just got round to the A1 servo shot. Am I too late to post it on the other discussion?
Frank I feel heartened to read that you say you almost invariably rely on the camera's autofocus. My Sony a6000 has a very fast autofocus. It also has 'direct manual focus' in which you first use autofocus and then top up with manual focus. But the shutter on this camera is so sensitive that I find I cannot hold my finger on it and use the manual focus without taking the shot before I want to take it.
That sounds a good tip -thank you, Frank. When I get my a6000 back from Sony (it developed a memory card read defect after only 3 months!) I'll have a look.
Using Liveview with 2second timer
My other attempt at Liveview with manual focus again with 2 second timer
I Have an Olympus em5 which uses live view most of the time but I don't use manual focus unless the camera cannot focus for some reason such as in darkness.
Very nice focus
@callymazoo actually you can enlarge while in live view before you take the photo to adjust focus not just after you take the photo. This helps alot
ISO 400, f/3.5, 1/60s, 40mm +10 macro filter.
I used live view and manual focus, and zoomed in so I could focus on the very edges of the scales - I had no idea my camera could do this, so what a great challenge!
I had my camera set up on a tripod pointing towards the ground (I also discovered I can reverse the tripod so the camera is between the legs instead of above it) and used a 2-second shutter delay to avoid camera shake.
It's good to do these challenges even although I think I know this stuff because there is always more to learn
it took me a while to realise that in live view I have to have the camera on manual setting as it would not focus; is that correct? I forgot about playing to enlarge to check clarity but then I was not using a tripod and had to just judge. There is only so long a girl can take crouched at the foot of a crumbled stone wall - live view or not!
However, I do not find it easy when outdoors. Yesterday I went out in the early evening to try a long exposure and found that even in the lower light I was unable to see the Liveview very well. I also found that I had lost all ability to drive the magnifying section. This may have been the cold wind and fumbly fingers but I fear it was actually brain freeze due to the unfamiliar setting! Anyway both combined for a less than perfect focus, I think. I was on MF, as AF was not coping.
I think perhaps I need a field monitor but I would be pleased to know, how do others cope with squinty little screens in outdoor conditions.
So does the mirror flipping up shake the camera a significant amount? I do so few macro/tripod shots that a lot of this is new for me!
http://www.dpreview.com/previews/canon-eos-5ds-sr
As you see, sometimes fewer megapixels can give you better "apparent" sharpness, more room for "slop" to be masked over.. There is absolutely no benefit to these monsters without the damping technology, and still they require good (and mindful) shooting technique hand-held.
I went out this morning early and tried to follow the instruction for this challenge. I'm so new at this that I'm not sure if I accomplished it or not. Suggestions?
ISO100, f/2.8, 1/80s, 24mm, +10 and +4 macro filters.
The flower. This close, no matter your aperture, it will be difficult to get all the flower in focus, the DoF is only a few millimeters this close. If you want all the flower sharp, you'll have to "focus stack." Rather than go into detail on that, you can google the term. Live View, tripod and manual focus will all be used. 15-20 images each with a millimeter or two different focus, and then stack them in Photoshop.
I must say I was super impressed with using this method! I had no idea of how convenient it was. Thank you for all of your mentoring. I am feeling quite comfortable totally choosing my manual settings, and now manually focusing. The live view, and zooming in made it easy to get a good shot. For this collage I focused on the right pink daisy in one shot, and the left pink daisy in the other.
This one was 1/25 sec, f 3.2, ISO 400, the collage above was 1/15 sec, f1.8, ISO 400
ISO 100, f/2.8, 1/125s, 40mm lens (no macro filters this time).
This one was harder because the branches of the forsythia bush kept swaying in the breeze, so zooming in to focus was tough since it was a moving target. But I did get some decent shots, and I liked this one best from a composition standpoint. :)
I found this challenge interesting as I have always had trouble manually focusing & was able to focus much better with live view. (I wear glasses & am short-sighted)
It feels a bit strange not looking through the view finder.
I found that I could also see if I was over or underexposed quite easily.
As an aside I wanted to use Flash on this subject as the babies face was in heavy shadow and so was the side of the mother's head - but it blew out too much. Then I remembered that I can use Flash Exposure Compensation. I knew it was there but had never used it. So I fiddled around with that as well. Two learnings for the price of one :)
This is the shot that I was happiest with. I have focused on the Mother's Eye & used the Flash at -2.
I have extremely dodgy eyes, so have avoided manual focus until now. I can't compare against a Canon or Nikon camera, but my Lumix GH4 as this funky green tinge that appears when you have the camera in manual focus which helps you to know when your shot is in focus….. In bloody credible.
This shot was not on a tripod it was taken on the fly at the park with my grandson yesterday.
I'm having a little better luck with things that stay put, but had the tripod aimed at the feeder and camera focused at the front of the circle they stand on and settings at ISO 1600 f5.6 and 1/1000 when she stopped again I shot this one. Best I've had so far on something moving. Most of my shots are taken while walking so I don't usually have the tripod, but did like the way it worked. Any other suggestions?
Thanks so much for this subject. Being short-sighted I always have trouble deciding if my subject is perfectly focused, and never thought about using the live view. Elementary really! I'm pretty happy with the way this came out, although working in the sun made it a bit tricky.
Aperture priority, F5, Auto ISO 160, 53mmFL. Switched off IS. changed to MF. Got the manual out!
Did some practice shots of various things, but decided on these bottles as could hone in to check sharpness more easily. Havnt done this before and had to figure it out. Can see the advantage of checking on close up after focusing manually.
However my eyes are not the best and it was still hard to judge the best sharpness. Also I find looking at a screen in the bright light quite difficult although I realise I could tilt it in this mode. The view finder has the adjustment for my eye which is great.
I couldn't get sharpness throughout the shot, it was either the face or the other two bottles. Probably I was too near and should have had a narrower focal range? Will definitely try this again. Any comments appreciated.
Love the live view approach - hadn't used it with this camera much - but I've found out it's ideal for things that stay put. My focusing is getting better - still not there yet, but did like the clarity of the raindrops that had just finished falling. Using ISO 800 (cloudy after the rain), 1/320 at f5.6. Any changes you can suggest?