I metered the exposure for this shot using spot metering. I'm still not getting the hang of it. I still did a slight pp adjustments on the shadows. The light source for the subject is coming from a window.
Not that interesting subject though, next time I'll try portrait shot by the window, for me to learn more about spot metering.
btw, heres what i did for that shot, Manual mode then I metered the left side (shadows) of the pic, and adjusted the exposure till the meter hits the extreme underexposure. Then I recomposed, focus on the label, then shot it. Am I doing it correctly?
Also, being a noob, please alert me if I'm using some terms incorrectly. Comments/suggestion on how to do this right is most welcome.. :) thanks!
I'm completely struggling with metering too. Especially inside my house. I have a Nikon D40 and when I use the metering on the camera my pics are to dark. Then if I use the flash they are blown out by the flash. I've also fiddled around with the exposure compensation, and flash compensation and still don't have it. I was trying to keep the iso low, but maybe that's the problem indoors..Can't wait to see the answers, I need help as well!
i'm waiting for answers, too! i need help with metering in general. trying to understand it makes me feel like a moron! i think i get it, but then i just don't...
Buy a meter... on camera meters are weak at best.... get a good flash/reflected light meter that gives you the read out. Enter setting into your camera (have one that ties to your strobe and camera) and well after that you will never go back...
@lislee75 if you want to get proper exposure indoors, and wanted to keep iso low, you can use a tripod and shoot at lower shutter speeds.
@laceyjogautreau proper exposure means subject is ideally lighted meaning not too dark or not too bright. Basically these can be achieved by adjusting couple of factors in camera the shutter speed and aperture. Other factors such as ISO and exposure compensation are there to assist also in achieving proper exposure
@icywarm thanks, I'm aware of the existence of an external light meter. I know that on camera it is not accurate, that's why we have exposure compensation. I don't have strobes and I'm not on the level yet of understanding flash photography and strobes heheh newbie here.
But my real concern is using Spot (nikon) metering (partial metering for canon ). I want to know how to properly utilize and benefit from using Spot Metering instead of using Matrix nikon (i think this is evaluative for canon counterpart) for getting properly exposed subject.
I read many references on the website but I need some confirmation from those who are used to / using it if my understanding is correct on how to apply it.
From my understanding in layman's term, Spot metering computes the proper exposure for the particular point on the subject only, while the Matrix / evaluative (this is the default settings for the most dslr) computes the exposure based on the whole area in the frame. (experts pls correct me if im wrong) :)
you have it basically right, well perfectly right...
Now depending on your camera the 'spot' will be either tied to the autofocus point or the very middle of the frame. The EV will 'lock' or not lock with focus lock (all these setting can be changed in the menu of various cameras) or can be set to a button. I have one button for auto focus, one for EV and than I have my shutter button.
Matrix tries to get everything to be exposed properly. the trouble is... lets say your camera can see 5 to 8 stop of light from brightest to darkest, it is very plausible that there will be 10 - 12 stop of light in the frame. Thus 'nothing' is exposed correctly as the camera tries to get everything. There are also center weighted exposure patterns, where the middle roughly 1/3 to 2/3 will be properly exposed and the edges will either falling into shadows or get blown out.
The solution for this on the modern camera is HDR. That was if you have say 12 stops of light in the frame your camera will capture them all exposed properly, but it needs 2-5 frames to do it, thus people move, ect...
I have my light source hit my subject, this leads the eye there, I set my 'spot' to my auto focus point, I focus, expose(stop down, back in the day of film) and trip my shutter.
Here I had lots of light and I could have exposed everything, rather I exposed for the bright light on the kid and let the shadows take the doctors... it was an artsy choice...
As to your method... on digital camera once highlights are blown you CANNOT get the detail back, so as the old adage goes "Shot of the Highlights, develop for the Shadows" (OK yes it was the other way for film, but it makes my point). You can always make those shadows in post, but cannot restore detail to those few blown highlights. And often there is a lot of detail in the shadows, so if you have to error one way or the other, I say better under than over...
@icywarm woooo that example of your's is very classic and it made things clear for me!
yea that's the way i understand it.. thanks for the confirmation! and yeah its an artsy choice.
i think another way to achieve this is "spot meter" the shadow of the doctors and intentionally underexpose them. correct? that's what i've done on my sample above.
Yes that is how photog did/do it with light... but my comments about blown highlights stands, and if you only have one change to get a photo, better to get the highlights and fix the shadows
Tweets ahoy!
Join the Group
Pin With Me
@laceyjogautreau proper exposure means subject is ideally lighted meaning not too dark or not too bright. Basically these can be achieved by adjusting couple of factors in camera the shutter speed and aperture. Other factors such as ISO and exposure compensation are there to assist also in achieving proper exposure
@icywarm thanks, I'm aware of the existence of an external light meter. I know that on camera it is not accurate, that's why we have exposure compensation. I don't have strobes and I'm not on the level yet of understanding flash photography and strobes heheh newbie here.
But my real concern is using Spot (nikon) metering (partial metering for canon ). I want to know how to properly utilize and benefit from using Spot Metering instead of using Matrix nikon (i think this is evaluative for canon counterpart) for getting properly exposed subject.
I read many references on the website but I need some confirmation from those who are used to / using it if my understanding is correct on how to apply it.
From my understanding in layman's term, Spot metering computes the proper exposure for the particular point on the subject only, while the Matrix / evaluative (this is the default settings for the most dslr) computes the exposure based on the whole area in the frame. (experts pls correct me if im wrong) :)
Thanks all :)
Now depending on your camera the 'spot' will be either tied to the autofocus point or the very middle of the frame. The EV will 'lock' or not lock with focus lock (all these setting can be changed in the menu of various cameras) or can be set to a button. I have one button for auto focus, one for EV and than I have my shutter button.
Matrix tries to get everything to be exposed properly. the trouble is... lets say your camera can see 5 to 8 stop of light from brightest to darkest, it is very plausible that there will be 10 - 12 stop of light in the frame. Thus 'nothing' is exposed correctly as the camera tries to get everything. There are also center weighted exposure patterns, where the middle roughly 1/3 to 2/3 will be properly exposed and the edges will either falling into shadows or get blown out.
The solution for this on the modern camera is HDR. That was if you have say 12 stops of light in the frame your camera will capture them all exposed properly, but it needs 2-5 frames to do it, thus people move, ect...
I have my light source hit my subject, this leads the eye there, I set my 'spot' to my auto focus point, I focus, expose(stop down, back in the day of film) and trip my shutter.
Here I had lots of light and I could have exposed everything, rather I exposed for the bright light on the kid and let the shadows take the doctors... it was an artsy choice...
yea that's the way i understand it.. thanks for the confirmation! and yeah its an artsy choice.
i think another way to achieve this is "spot meter" the shadow of the doctors and intentionally underexpose them. correct? that's what i've done on my sample above.
Again thank you so much for confirming! :)