Thank you so much for selecting my photo, Supermoon Photobomb as winner of the CSC-28 Challenge. It was VERY exciting and I thank you for your votes and support!
Do some of the camera settings intimidate you? Do you want to learn how to develop your photography skills and learn how to use your camera effectively without always going back to the “auto” function? These challenges are for you!
I have asked Paul “Snapshot” Everest (@steampowered) to co-host Camera Settings Challenge 29. I have long admired Paul’s creative mind and knowledge about photography. Since one of the options as challenge coordinator is to invite someone more experienced and knowledgeable to lead the challenge, Paul immediately came to mind. Thanks to Paul, we have a great challenge for the week!
This week’s challenge is: In Camera Sun Flares
Explanation: According to some sources, sun flares at one time were thought of as a flaw in a photograph, but they have become increasingly popular. Sun flares can be shot in camera or processed through programs like photoshop. This challenge is to capture the sun flare In Camera, not through post processing.
Here is an example from Paul’s album:
Here is one from mine, following the directions below and Paul’s advice:
You might want to start with useful tips from Digital Photography School:
http://digital-photography-school.com/5-tips-for-achieving-artistic-lens-flare-how-to#ixzz2YKif2ONb
Health Advisory Warning!! Be careful of your eyes. Don’t leave the camera looking at the sun for too long as it can cause serious damage. We don’t want any eyes or cameras hurt by participants in this challenge.
http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/1797/can-i-damage-my-camera-by-pointing-it-at-the-sun/
Helpful Links: There are several additional sites online that have advice for capturing a sun flare. Examples include:
http://photographyawesomesauce.com/8-tips-for-sun-flare-photos/
http://www.lightstalking.com/lens-flare
http://davedicello.com/tutorials/sun-flare-tutorial/
This one is about flare that is essentially a bright spot, but not the little starburst flare: http://www.mcpactions.com/blog/2009/08/24/5-killer-ways-to-shoot-into-the-sun-and-get-beautiful-flare/
Experienced photographers who are knowledgeable in this particular setting are encouraged to offer “kind and constructive” suggestions on the posted entries. Those entering this challenge want to learn and improve.
This challenge starts today and ends on July 14th at 12:00pm Central Standard Time (17:00 Zulu time http://www.zulutime.net). All photos must be taken during these dates to be considered. Enter as many as you would like- the idea is to practice & learn. TAG YOUR PHOTO CSC-29 AND post your picture in this thread to receive feedback from other experienced photographers specific to this challenge.
Voting will take place , July 16th (and remain open 24 hours) and the winner will be announced by July 18th. The winner of the challenge will select an experienced photographer to host a new challenge. It is the winner’s option on who they want to host the next challenge; it may be someone they follow whose work they admire, or someone who is active offering suggestions on previous CSC challenges. The winner may also select an experienced photographer for the list of photographers who have agreed to host future challenges as another option. Here is the link to that list: http://365project.org/myhrhelper/365/2011-12-12
Expect to receive constructive suggests on how to improve your skills.
How to post your photo on this link:
1) Go to your page that has the photo you wish to post.
2) Copy the “share” code in the bottom right section of that page.
3) Return to this thread and paste the code under comments
Is the purpose of the challenge to get lens flare from a bright light source, like this:
(Not my photo)
Or a 'starburst effect' (technically diffraction artifacts), like this:
These are different effects caused in different ways, but both are present in the example photos (and the tutorials aren't clearly focused on a single effect). If the aim is to get both, that's fine :)
Lens flare is typically caused by positioning the sun (or other bright light) towards the edge of the frame. It's caused by light reflecting in unintended ways within the lens as it enters at an angle. The shape of the flare can be controlled by the aperture -- if the aperture is fully wide (smallest f number) the any flare will be large and circular. As you step the aperture down (larger f numbers), the flare will get smaller and start to resemble the shape of the aperture (usually looking pentagonal/hexagonal/octagonal, depending on the lens).
Note that lens flare is something that manufacturers work very hard to reduce and eliminate -- so cheaper lenses and older lenses will usually be more prone to flare, if you are wanting this effect.
If your aperture is very wide and your lens has well-controlled flare, the flare may be so faint as to be hard to make out -- by stepping the aperture down and making the flare smaller, you also make it more concentrated and brighter.
The starburst effect is caused by diffraction of light as it hits the aperture blades in the camera. This is the same optical phenomenon that causes spikes of light to appear around a bright light source if you squint through your eyelashes, although in the case of the lens, the spikes are much more orderly.
You can get a starburst effect from a light source anywhere in the frame, but you must use a very small aperture (large f number). Typically a minimum of f/11, with f/16-f/22 giving longer 'spikes'.
The number of spikes around your light source is determined by the number of aperture blades in your lens. If you have a lens with an even number of aperture blades (6 or 8 is common), you will get 6 or 8 spikes coming from your light source. If you have a lens with an odd number of aperture blades (5, 7 or 9 usually), you will get double the number of spikes coming from your light source (10, 14 or 18).
In the example I posted, you can determine that the lens I used for this shot has 7 aperture blades, as the starburst has 14 spikes.
Again, some lenses are more prone to the starburst effect than others, although all lenses will show it to some degree at very small apertures.
If you want both lens flare and the starburst effect, as in the examples, you will have to position the sun towards the edge of the frame *and* use a narrow aperture like f/16 or f/22. Try a few lenses if you have them, to see which lens is most prone to flare. Some lenses will not show significant flare until the sun is actually just out of the frame.
Following consultation with Paul to be sure we are all on the same page, here's what we intended, Alexis. You raised an important question. Our goal for this challenge is to have 365ers experiment with flare in the broadest sense of the word, but it must be **in camera** and not post production. It does not have to be SOOC but the production is only to enhance but not embed the flare.
In the "helpful links" listed above, three focus on the latter example, the starburst effect, while the fourth is for flare.
Thanks Alexis, for the additional information to distinguish between the two and about settings!
My next attempt. Lots of improvement needed. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Is my standard kit lens good enough for me to keep at it and see some improvement...hopefully lol
I know that I shouldn't be participating in this because I gave @taffy a little bit of assistance to get this going but I couldn't resist this chance for an early morning walk and catch some flare with my phone camera.
with my phone today ... I am taking the camera with me tomorrow in the hope of trying this challenge properly as the sunlight was too powerful for me to see what i was shooting with the phone ... lucky I guess that i got the web I have been after for ages and the sun
I know this isn't good for the challenge because of the date, but I hope you don't mind me sharing, I think I captured an angel while trying to capture the setting sun's reflection :)
I just discovered this challenge, and I thought maybe this one qualifies (although it's a very slight lens flare, almost invisible...coupled with some starburst)
"The number of spikes around your light source is determined by the number of aperture blades in your lens. If you have a lens with an even number of aperture blades (6 or 8 is common), you will get 6 or 8 spikes coming from your light source. If you have a lens with an odd number of aperture blades (5, 7 or 9 usually), you will get double the number of spikes coming from your light source (10, 14 or 18)."
My last attempt ~ reverted to using the kit lens 18-55 and playing about with settings ~ took about 30 in total and this was the best of the bunch ~ not the perfect composition but I got the flares and burst, so am happy
I think the refraction below the sunburst may have been caused by a scratch on my cheapie UV filter, but it just came out this way, no processing! Since the contest is still open, I thought I'd post it here for critique.
I am too late to enter this one but just wanted to share ~ I am obsessed with getting sun bursts right now [lol] ~ well the sun doesn;t shine often here in the UK during summer so making the most of it :-) Thank you so much for setting this challenge, have enjoyed this one a lot
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(Not my photo)
Or a 'starburst effect' (technically diffraction artifacts), like this:
These are different effects caused in different ways, but both are present in the example photos (and the tutorials aren't clearly focused on a single effect). If the aim is to get both, that's fine :)
Lens flare is typically caused by positioning the sun (or other bright light) towards the edge of the frame. It's caused by light reflecting in unintended ways within the lens as it enters at an angle. The shape of the flare can be controlled by the aperture -- if the aperture is fully wide (smallest f number) the any flare will be large and circular. As you step the aperture down (larger f numbers), the flare will get smaller and start to resemble the shape of the aperture (usually looking pentagonal/hexagonal/octagonal, depending on the lens).
Note that lens flare is something that manufacturers work very hard to reduce and eliminate -- so cheaper lenses and older lenses will usually be more prone to flare, if you are wanting this effect.
If your aperture is very wide and your lens has well-controlled flare, the flare may be so faint as to be hard to make out -- by stepping the aperture down and making the flare smaller, you also make it more concentrated and brighter.
The starburst effect is caused by diffraction of light as it hits the aperture blades in the camera. This is the same optical phenomenon that causes spikes of light to appear around a bright light source if you squint through your eyelashes, although in the case of the lens, the spikes are much more orderly.
You can get a starburst effect from a light source anywhere in the frame, but you must use a very small aperture (large f number). Typically a minimum of f/11, with f/16-f/22 giving longer 'spikes'.
The number of spikes around your light source is determined by the number of aperture blades in your lens. If you have a lens with an even number of aperture blades (6 or 8 is common), you will get 6 or 8 spikes coming from your light source. If you have a lens with an odd number of aperture blades (5, 7 or 9 usually), you will get double the number of spikes coming from your light source (10, 14 or 18).
In the example I posted, you can determine that the lens I used for this shot has 7 aperture blades, as the starburst has 14 spikes.
Again, some lenses are more prone to the starburst effect than others, although all lenses will show it to some degree at very small apertures.
If you want both lens flare and the starburst effect, as in the examples, you will have to position the sun towards the edge of the frame *and* use a narrow aperture like f/16 or f/22. Try a few lenses if you have them, to see which lens is most prone to flare. Some lenses will not show significant flare until the sun is actually just out of the frame.
@steampowered
Following consultation with Paul to be sure we are all on the same page, here's what we intended, Alexis. You raised an important question. Our goal for this challenge is to have 365ers experiment with flare in the broadest sense of the word, but it must be **in camera** and not post production. It does not have to be SOOC but the production is only to enhance but not embed the flare.
In the "helpful links" listed above, three focus on the latter example, the starburst effect, while the fourth is for flare.
Thanks Alexis, for the additional information to distinguish between the two and about settings!
@steampowered @taffy
attempt lens flare:
"The number of spikes around your light source is determined by the number of aperture blades in your lens. If you have a lens with an even number of aperture blades (6 or 8 is common), you will get 6 or 8 spikes coming from your light source. If you have a lens with an odd number of aperture blades (5, 7 or 9 usually), you will get double the number of spikes coming from your light source (10, 14 or 18)."
My attempt