I started using my back button focus on my Nikon recently and found it to be really handy as opposed to keeping the shutter pressed half down to focus. Just wanted to know from the experts whether it was still necessary to use the Dynamic Area AF in AF-area mode with the camera in this setup when photographing moving objects like cars.
Back button focus only alters when the camera tries to focus (when the button is pressed, instead of when the shutter release is half-pressed). You will still need to select the correct focusing mode for the subject you are photographing, such as switching the camera into AF-C mode and enabling Dynamic AF-Area mode for photographing subjects you want the camera to track.
@abirkill Thank you so much Alexis. I set the camera to AF-C and AF-ON but wasn't sure about the Dynamic area. You solved my problem. Can't wait to try it out :-)
Another way to think about it, the "back button" (any control button you have so designated) or shutter half press in conjunction with the servo modes AF-C, AF-S AF-A all have to do with WHEN,and for "A" and "C" HOW OFTEN, the camera will grab focus, the AF-Area mode has to do with on WHAT you (or the camera) decide to focus, and WHERE the camera will look for additional focus information if the subject is moving.
@frankhymus : Thanks for that additional and very helpful info Frank. I tried using all the variables and was quite pleased with the result (although I still need to get used to positioning my finger on the back button ;))
@a_cam Stick with it Audrey - for me BBF has been a revelation.
I'm a Canon user, (can't imagine things are much different on a Nikon) but the combination of Back Button Focus, AI-Servo and Single Point AF get me more in-focus shots more of the time, with much more control over the camera. Find out the best Nikon Servo mode (the one that tracks the best - AF-C I believe) and the best AF Area selection (Canon works fine with Single Point AF in most situations - Nikon may need Dynamic AF) you will have a set-up to do 95%+ of your focusing needs.
So, I would try AF-C and Single Point AF - select your focus point, hit and hold the BBF button and the subject should track as long as the subject stops in the overall AF Area. If not try Dynamic Area AF. (Of course, just tap the BBF for a static focus point and you're done. No more unwanted re-focussing whenever the shutter button is depressed.) Been using this about five months now and now it's absolutely second nature and I don't think I'll ever go back.
There's a great e-book by James Brandon called Tack Sharp on this and other focusing issues for a few pounds/dollars on his website, which again is Canon-based, but was a game changer for me.
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Another way to think about it, the "back button" (any control button you have so designated) or shutter half press in conjunction with the servo modes AF-C, AF-S AF-A all have to do with WHEN,and for "A" and "C" HOW OFTEN, the camera will grab focus, the AF-Area mode has to do with on WHAT you (or the camera) decide to focus, and WHERE the camera will look for additional focus information if the subject is moving.
I'm a Canon user, (can't imagine things are much different on a Nikon) but the combination of Back Button Focus, AI-Servo and Single Point AF get me more in-focus shots more of the time, with much more control over the camera. Find out the best Nikon Servo mode (the one that tracks the best - AF-C I believe) and the best AF Area selection (Canon works fine with Single Point AF in most situations - Nikon may need Dynamic AF) you will have a set-up to do 95%+ of your focusing needs.
So, I would try AF-C and Single Point AF - select your focus point, hit and hold the BBF button and the subject should track as long as the subject stops in the overall AF Area. If not try Dynamic Area AF. (Of course, just tap the BBF for a static focus point and you're done. No more unwanted re-focussing whenever the shutter button is depressed.) Been using this about five months now and now it's absolutely second nature and I don't think I'll ever go back.
There's a great e-book by James Brandon called Tack Sharp on this and other focusing issues for a few pounds/dollars on his website, which again is Canon-based, but was a game changer for me.