So stops, steps, composition, converging lines, anchoring, tones, exposure, aperture control, shape, texture etc etc I have all this in the brain already and while I might not be combining it all to the best effect as yet I am ready to move on.
I really want to move onto using flash, nay! I am ready to move on to using two or three flashes off and on camera.. Infact I need to learn these skills and rapidly, I have two shoots planned this year and one is for violent night time scenes and the other is a modelling shoot down in the woods. I feel both will benefit from some outside source of light.
Any hints and tips from anyone will be gladly welcomed.
All the systems I have use a 1 pin shoe mount so the actual units are not that expensive, what will I need to do this?
How much exposure compensation would I require etc, I know there will be guides on the flash units but what is the general rule of thumb? (I have found a base rule has served me well in every other area so far)
Also on my main SLR to which I can't find a manual, it indicates that it has flash sync at 125 but it has no sync connection like all my older cameras, what's that about? All I know is it has a 1 pin hot shoe mount and I don't know which models would have direct sync through the shoe???
Interesting.... I am not much of a film person but I can help with flash.
Film uses the same idea as ISO on a DSLR so I guess it really depends on how much light you have and the type of photos you want to produce.
Now that you will only have one flash you will be limited to the type of photos you can take and given that it is a manual flash (i.e. it doesnt have things like ETTL) it is going to take some trial and error to get the correct flash exposure.
Now if I was you I would get a light meter.... This will give you a very good understanding how you lighting is without having to see your images. I.e. it will tell you if your main subject is correctly exposed or not and you can adjust your flash to get it correct.
What you are attempting is not impossible but not having the instant feed back that a digital format gives you it is going to be difficult.
I see you use a DSLR is there any reason why you want to attempt this using film?
My DSLR is up for sale, I'm not leaving digital but I plan on getting an older Pentax body (They have great backwards compatibility) I really can't afford Canon gear and I don't like auctions.
I had a feeling you was going to suggest a light meter as I had thought this myself. so....
The night time scenario, I am wanting to shoot from the perspective of a victim of a gang getting chased and then beat with bats, I'm looking for a lot of shadow with highlighted details in the beat up scenes, for the chase i am going to try a mixture of silhouettes and maybe panning with flash to add the movement of looking behind you etc etc
say you was shooting this and you decided to add a knife in the closer scenes, would you meter off the knife as this should "by my line of thought" be the brightest object and may end up reflecting the light.
also by my line of thought, if I meter from the knife, I will lose details in the shadows, if I meter from the shadows It will be suggested to up the exposure thus causing a nasty reflection and maybe even hiding any detail of the blade.
I think I might be answering myself here but would you take readings from both and try settings somewhere in the middle ground?
Also with the scenario painted, what ISO would YOU go for? I am thinking 400 to 800. I would explain my logic but i'm sure that it is wrong!
@agima you said.. What you are attempting is not impossible but not having the instant feed back that a digital format gives you it is going to be difficult.
I say this is not a problem, I am working with friends in both scenarios and they all know where I'm at and wanting to get too, failure isn't a problem either, I'm a learn from your mistakes kind of man so I am going into this thinking the worst and if I come out of the other end with nothing, I will have learned something for the next time :)
ISO 800 if not higher due to the fact that you will most likely be using F 11 or above so as to keep all the details in the photo.
The light for the bashed up photo, I would have the flash coming in from a very sharp angle and have the spot/zoomed light. This will make a very harsh light with lots and lots of drama.
Dont meter off the knife. I have taken a few knife photos and depending on the angle of the knife will depend on how much light hits the camera. So if you meter off the knife it might be turned in such a way that it is either over exposed or under exposed. Meter off the subject face and just under the chin. The meter should face the flash. You can then meter around the subject to get an understanding of how the light and final image will be.
If I was you I would keep a good records of the exact setting of each shot, so after the are processed you will know how you created the image.
What might help is take you DSLR and use that as your light meter. While it will give you a reading without strobe you will still need an actual light meter if you want to meter the strobe.
Now onto the subject of selling your DSLR. You actually want to get good at this it is going to cost you a fortune in processing and in the longer term you will spend many more dollars on processing and take much longer to progress your skills with film Of course what ever floats your boat and if that is something you want to follow I wish you all the success, just don't do it because you think it is going to be cheaper. :)
If you are looking for connecting cable I have used Flashzebra.com and they will also make up cables if need.
@agima Infact thats spot on you have answered just about everything I'll take my lead from this, I'm going to run some test shots before I get down to organising the actual shoot so I'll have some sort of pre conceived Idea of where to start.
I am not giving digital up, I am just switching back to the brand I started out with and have lots of compatible kit for, Pentax is much cheaper than Canon when it comes to my needs and I love the colours they produce SOOC much more and even the entry level stuff feels quality compared with my Canon and they have much better features and a higher quality picture at high ISO. Not to mention the green button and one stop jog wheel. You could say I'm sold on the Pentax.
@agima I will give you a shout if I do, Thanks ever so much for your time and advice, its much appreciated. God knows how much I would of had to of read to find all that out so thanks again ;)
@agima@grizzlysghost Well its game on, I've just made my first purchase, a lovely conditioned Vivitar 4600 Auto Thyristor, I just need a pc sync shoe mount adapter and I can start experimenting. I got the flash boxed with manual and a DC-1 module for Pentax for under £15. I'd say that is about £18-20 U.S Dollars and I have no Idea what that is in Aus.
@agima I'm taking my lead from strobist.com now but I would still expect a question or three from me in the future if I were you :)
Write a Reply
Sign up for a free account or Sign in to post a comment.
Tweets ahoy!
Join the Group
Pin With Me
And another, what kind of film would best suit, particularly for the night scene shoot I mentioned, will I use daylight film due to the extra light?
Film uses the same idea as ISO on a DSLR so I guess it really depends on how much light you have and the type of photos you want to produce.
Now that you will only have one flash you will be limited to the type of photos you can take and given that it is a manual flash (i.e. it doesnt have things like ETTL) it is going to take some trial and error to get the correct flash exposure.
Now if I was you I would get a light meter.... This will give you a very good understanding how you lighting is without having to see your images. I.e. it will tell you if your main subject is correctly exposed or not and you can adjust your flash to get it correct.
What you are attempting is not impossible but not having the instant feed back that a digital format gives you it is going to be difficult.
I see you use a DSLR is there any reason why you want to attempt this using film?
My DSLR is up for sale, I'm not leaving digital but I plan on getting an older Pentax body (They have great backwards compatibility) I really can't afford Canon gear and I don't like auctions.
I had a feeling you was going to suggest a light meter as I had thought this myself. so....
The night time scenario, I am wanting to shoot from the perspective of a victim of a gang getting chased and then beat with bats, I'm looking for a lot of shadow with highlighted details in the beat up scenes, for the chase i am going to try a mixture of silhouettes and maybe panning with flash to add the movement of looking behind you etc etc
say you was shooting this and you decided to add a knife in the closer scenes, would you meter off the knife as this should "by my line of thought" be the brightest object and may end up reflecting the light.
also by my line of thought, if I meter from the knife, I will lose details in the shadows, if I meter from the shadows It will be suggested to up the exposure thus causing a nasty reflection and maybe even hiding any detail of the blade.
I think I might be answering myself here but would you take readings from both and try settings somewhere in the middle ground?
Also with the scenario painted, what ISO would YOU go for? I am thinking 400 to 800. I would explain my logic but i'm sure that it is wrong!
I say this is not a problem, I am working with friends in both scenarios and they all know where I'm at and wanting to get too, failure isn't a problem either, I'm a learn from your mistakes kind of man so I am going into this thinking the worst and if I come out of the other end with nothing, I will have learned something for the next time :)
ISO 800 if not higher due to the fact that you will most likely be using F 11 or above so as to keep all the details in the photo.
The light for the bashed up photo, I would have the flash coming in from a very sharp angle and have the spot/zoomed light. This will make a very harsh light with lots and lots of drama.
Dont meter off the knife. I have taken a few knife photos and depending on the angle of the knife will depend on how much light hits the camera. So if you meter off the knife it might be turned in such a way that it is either over exposed or under exposed. Meter off the subject face and just under the chin. The meter should face the flash. You can then meter around the subject to get an understanding of how the light and final image will be.
If I was you I would keep a good records of the exact setting of each shot, so after the are processed you will know how you created the image.
What might help is take you DSLR and use that as your light meter. While it will give you a reading without strobe you will still need an actual light meter if you want to meter the strobe.
Now onto the subject of selling your DSLR. You actually want to get good at this it is going to cost you a fortune in processing and in the longer term you will spend many more dollars on processing and take much longer to progress your skills with film Of course what ever floats your boat and if that is something you want to follow I wish you all the success, just don't do it because you think it is going to be cheaper. :)
If you are looking for connecting cable I have used Flashzebra.com and they will also make up cables if need.
Does that help?
I am not giving digital up, I am just switching back to the brand I started out with and have lots of compatible kit for, Pentax is much cheaper than Canon when it comes to my needs and I love the colours they produce SOOC much more and even the entry level stuff feels quality compared with my Canon and they have much better features and a higher quality picture at high ISO. Not to mention the green button and one stop jog wheel. You could say I'm sold on the Pentax.
@agima I'm taking my lead from strobist.com now but I would still expect a question or three from me in the future if I were you :)