Not dangerous for me, but dangerous for my (not waterproof) camera. The three shots I am posting today have been made the same way : hold my camera one centimeter above the water, wait for the spill of the breaking wave to run to me, and at the last second make the blind shot and pull my camera away while the wave passes by me and fills my wellies.
In this first shot, I was still cautious and I made the shot 2 seconds before the water was on my camera. There is a forced perspective effect : the distances seem bigger than they really are; also the first front of water is only a few centimeters high while the original waves that break in the background are much bigger.