I recently invested in some macro extension tubes and can finally enter the wonderful world of macro photography! I will start it off with my latest shot.
I am really new to macro photography. I had my first day out with my macro lens last Friday and this is one of my photos. I know I have a lot of improving to do to get to the calibre of Elizabeth King with her opening shot !!
@gurry I have heard of the reverse lens technique... how is it accomplished... does it put your lens at risk?
@danacarruthers Thank you so much... I'm just learning now. I have only had my extension tubes for about 2 weeks. I wish I could afford a true macro lens! I think your shot is great! Love the colors and shadows!
@eking2007 Reverse lens doesn't put your lens at risk, so long as your careful about it. There's two ways to do it...
1) Take your lens off and physically hold it to your camera body backwards. Tape if there if you want to. 18-55mm kit lenses are amazing for this -- but I can't remember if they should be at zoomed to 18mm or 50mm... Experiment! Both will give you great results!
This is the not so safe way, but it shouldn't be a problem so long as you're stationary and not hanging out of a helicopter or chasing mountain lions to get shots of their eyeballs. Also, this way can cause light leaks in your shot, but some might enjoy those kinda things.
This is also the difficult way. It's pretty hard to get a good shot because you're holding the lens and the body, which means both could be jittering independently of one another. For people with jittery hands (me, for sure), it can be a real pain. More on this below...
2) Buy a reverse ring that you screw onto the front of your lens like a filter, and then you can actually mount it to your body like any other lens, only backwards. This is the best way to do it.
Now, once you have the lens mounted to your body one way or another, you can take the shot. To focus, you don't adjust the lens at all, but you physically move your camera-body/human-body closer to or away from your subject. (Zooming the lens will have an effect to a certain extent, but I can't really describe what... Again, experiment!)
I always found this is easiest to do by mounting your elbows onto a table or something, and leaning ever-so-slightly back and forth. If you're going with option #1 above, you really have no choice but to do this, otherwise you'll never get a crisp shot -- unless you moonlight as a human statue or a stand-in at a wax museum.
With the lens in reverse, it has a "sweet spot" for its focus. Its depth of field is now like a sliver of a bi-section of whatever you're shooting. It's really amazing to see, actually, and really fun to creep back and forth millimeter by millimeter to see how this affects the DOF. Give it a shot.
Just make sure you either have a flash set up, and/or your subject is very well lit. Looking through your viewfinder can cause eyestrain, especially since your subject is so close. Since you are now judging the focus, you want to make it as easy as possible for your eyes, and also so you can get a sweet shot.
Give it a go, and holla back if you have any questions (I'm so stuck in the 2000's.)
With all that said, here's another reverse lens shot of... Take a guess.
Mines a bit lame compared to all the wonderful shots on the thread, but it's the only one I've got
Now I'm off to have a go with the reverse lens as explained earlier. Thanks @gurry @johnnyfrs
That is an AMAZING photograph
@emmar84 Brilliant, I've already ordered some, but I didn't know just how close up they would get me, I cant wait for them to arrive now, thank you Emma : ))
@lorraineb I usually only use the 7 and 14mm stacked, if you use all 3 together (7, 14 and 28mm) then you can focus from a couple of mm away from the subject but at unless waht you are photographing is tiny you usually will have abstract style maros (an example from when I first got them http://365project.org/emmar84/odds-sods-and-i/2011-07-07)
Also consider what lens you will use with them as it only enable you to use the aperature wide open and the dof can become very small. I sometimes use my 50mm f/1.8 but it can be hard to get the focus right and usually uise my 18-200mm which gives a slightly smaller apperture.
Finally, if you use your extension tubes less light is able to get tot your sensor so you either have to bump up your ISO or use a tripod and have a longer exposure which works best with stationary subjects.
@gurry
Thanks for the nice comment on my pic.
I might be missing something in your explanation about reverse lens, but as soon as I remove the lens, the camera won't work. I get a message on the LCD screen saying no lens attached. Does this only work on newer cameras? I have a Nikon D40
@onie Hmm, I'm not too familiar with Nikon cameras so I can't help you much. I'm sure there's something in the settings that will allow you to shoot without an attached lens...
@gurry
I am such an "auto" user. Finally worked it out and put the selector on "M" and it worked! Was using a lamp as my light source, but the shutter stayed open a while and I couldn't keep my hands steady. Will have a go tomorrow outside with natural light.
You have to get really, really close?
@onie Glad you got it working. The brighter the better. Since you're using manual, you'll need to control your ISO and shutter speed to get a good picture. These settings will depend on how bright your lighting it. I always found that a lamp was not enough light, and sometimes daylight wasn't even bright enough to get a fast shutter speed (at least 1/100) at ISO 400.
I would suggest starting around there -- 1/100 shutter speed and ISO 400 or 800, and see how the picture comes out. From there, keep trying to make it brighter. Get a flashlight and put it right up against your subject. And, yes, like you said, you have to get really, really, close.
Since you're new to manual, I've also included a link below to a little excerpt I wrote a while back, in which I did my best to write a practical explanation of ISO and shutter speed. It's a few comments into the thread. Some people found it helpful, so I hope you do as well :)
Looking forward to seeing your first reverse shot!
Guys, these are all fantastic shots! one question, and as usual its a dumb question...how do you add pics to this text? would love to share some macro....
@jdweston Hi John, upload a photo, then open it in your album, then look to the right side, down a little and copy and paste the share code into the reply box : ))
@emmar84 those are the exact same extension tubes I use!! They were so cheap I couldn't pass them up. I think I am going save up for a real macro lens... but I agree it is very annoying to only be able to have the apature wide open. But I can't complain to much for $10...
@eking2007 Recently I had the option of buying a new lens, I struggled to pick between the canon 100mm f/2.8 macro and their 10-22mm. I went for the wide angle lens because I can make do with my extension tubes for now but I think my next lens will be the macro. The extension tubes with the electrical connections (so you can adjust the aperture/auto focus) are about £50 on amazon so maybe a solution in the mean time?
This first shot has been my favorite for a long time. i used a macro filter. I have since gotten a lens and now the second one is one of my new favorites
I love macro shots and can't get over all the stunning photos everyone's taken. Thanks to everyone who has commented on this discussion, I'd never heard of macro tubes and reverse lens shots before. I'm definitely going to try some macro tubes and then perhaps invest in a macro lens.
In the meantime, here is one of my efforts at macro using a normal lens and then zooming in post editing.
@shirljess I don't shoot with Nikon so I won't be of much help, but I can tell you that I shot the photo with a very inexpensive reversing ring :) you just need a lot of patience :D
@cheribug Yep, you sound as green as grass, but we'll season you up.
You're going to need to experiment with your camera settings and surroundings until you figure out what it takes to properly expose the shot you want.
First, get as much light as possible on your subject. You don't want to use the flash if you can avoid it. Put the subject by a window with blindingly bright sunlight. Aim flashlights at it. Put it in the middle of lamps. Light a fire. Do whatever you can to make it BRIGHT because this will help A LOT.
Next, try turning your ISO as high as it will go. Having a high ISO means your camera's sensor will react to light faster, meaning your shutter won't have to be open so long to get a proper exposure.
Then, start experimenting with your shutter speeds. Start around 1/10 (or .10 seconds on Nikon), and slowly make your way toward a faster shutter speed. This will be the challenge, because you now have multiple factors to pay attention to:
1. You want a sharp picture, so you'll probably want your shutter speed to be around 1/60 to 1/100 of a second (that's around .016 to .01 in Nikon-talk). How
2. If your picture is blown out/too bright at 1/60 to 1/100 shutter speed, now is the time to start dropping your ISO. Ideally, you can get a nice sharp shot with minimal noise with ISO 800 an below.
3. You still have to focus. When shooting reverse lens -- especially without a proper lens mount -- this becomes is often the most challenging part. A lot of people don't realize how close you need to get to the subject, so don't be afraid. Get in their really close, and hope your arm muscles are in good shape, because you'll be trembling in no time.
One thing I always do when shooting reverse is find the settings first and adjusting the environment, and then worry about framing the shot. Doing all of them at once is a total pain. So, my recommendation is that you pick camera settings based as the above, get fairly close to your subject, and snap a shot.
Is it completely black? Then add more light, or change your settings (increase ISO, lengthen shutter speed).
Can you kind of make out what you were shooting? Then you're on the right track. Keep going.
@traeumerlein87 -- It's paint bouncing off a subwoofer... If you want more details on how to set this up please click on the picture and there's a link on the page with a how-to guide... Have fun!!!
I don´t have a macro lense. I´m doing my macros with my point and shoot with a quiet good macro function. But I´m thinking about buing a lens when I see your great photos here and I have a lot of fun doing macros.
This is probably my favorite macro photo I've taken. I bought some cheap macro filters and love them and use them a lot.
This one was hard... because every time I took a breath, my subject moved! Haha.
I really love hibiscuses; they remind me of my mom, because they are her favorite type of flower. I printed this photo, and I gave it to her as a gift --it was the first time I have ever done that. She really loved it, and it made me smile. (I used a macro lens, and I liked how I was able to capture most of the flower with focus on the stamen.)
Tweets ahoy!
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I think I like the sentiment more than the picture.
@danacarruthers Thank you so much... I'm just learning now. I have only had my extension tubes for about 2 weeks. I wish I could afford a true macro lens! I think your shot is great! Love the colors and shadows!
@sheshell that is very cool! Gorgeous macro!
@kareen I remember seeing this one at one point and really liking it! Love the pencil shavings!
1) Take your lens off and physically hold it to your camera body backwards. Tape if there if you want to. 18-55mm kit lenses are amazing for this -- but I can't remember if they should be at zoomed to 18mm or 50mm... Experiment! Both will give you great results!
This is the not so safe way, but it shouldn't be a problem so long as you're stationary and not hanging out of a helicopter or chasing mountain lions to get shots of their eyeballs. Also, this way can cause light leaks in your shot, but some might enjoy those kinda things.
This is also the difficult way. It's pretty hard to get a good shot because you're holding the lens and the body, which means both could be jittering independently of one another. For people with jittery hands (me, for sure), it can be a real pain. More on this below...
2) Buy a reverse ring that you screw onto the front of your lens like a filter, and then you can actually mount it to your body like any other lens, only backwards. This is the best way to do it.
Now, once you have the lens mounted to your body one way or another, you can take the shot. To focus, you don't adjust the lens at all, but you physically move your camera-body/human-body closer to or away from your subject. (Zooming the lens will have an effect to a certain extent, but I can't really describe what... Again, experiment!)
I always found this is easiest to do by mounting your elbows onto a table or something, and leaning ever-so-slightly back and forth. If you're going with option #1 above, you really have no choice but to do this, otherwise you'll never get a crisp shot -- unless you moonlight as a human statue or a stand-in at a wax museum.
With the lens in reverse, it has a "sweet spot" for its focus. Its depth of field is now like a sliver of a bi-section of whatever you're shooting. It's really amazing to see, actually, and really fun to creep back and forth millimeter by millimeter to see how this affects the DOF. Give it a shot.
Just make sure you either have a flash set up, and/or your subject is very well lit. Looking through your viewfinder can cause eyestrain, especially since your subject is so close. Since you are now judging the focus, you want to make it as easy as possible for your eyes, and also so you can get a sweet shot.
Give it a go, and holla back if you have any questions (I'm so stuck in the 2000's.)
With all that said, here's another reverse lens shot of... Take a guess.
Waspy, a few reasons, one I had to bathe him first :P
Now I'm off to have a go with the reverse lens as explained earlier. Thanks
@gurry
@johnnyfrs
That is an AMAZING photograph
Also consider what lens you will use with them as it only enable you to use the aperature wide open and the dof can become very small. I sometimes use my 50mm f/1.8 but it can be hard to get the focus right and usually uise my 18-200mm which gives a slightly smaller apperture.
Finally, if you use your extension tubes less light is able to get tot your sensor so you either have to bump up your ISO or use a tripod and have a longer exposure which works best with stationary subjects.
Thanks for the nice comment on my pic.
I might be missing something in your explanation about reverse lens, but as soon as I remove the lens, the camera won't work. I get a message on the LCD screen saying no lens attached. Does this only work on newer cameras? I have a Nikon D40
This is the only macro I have on here so far.
I am such an "auto" user. Finally worked it out and put the selector on "M" and it worked! Was using a lamp as my light source, but the shutter stayed open a while and I couldn't keep my hands steady. Will have a go tomorrow outside with natural light.
You have to get really, really close?
I would suggest starting around there -- 1/100 shutter speed and ISO 400 or 800, and see how the picture comes out. From there, keep trying to make it brighter. Get a flashlight and put it right up against your subject. And, yes, like you said, you have to get really, really, close.
Since you're new to manual, I've also included a link below to a little excerpt I wrote a while back, in which I did my best to write a practical explanation of ISO and shutter speed. It's a few comments into the thread. Some people found it helpful, so I hope you do as well :)
Looking forward to seeing your first reverse shot!
http://365project.org/discuss/general/8799/i-have-a-stupid-question
Thanks R!!!!
Thanks in advance
I have a Canon mpe-65 macro lens, I think that shot was at 3x life size.
Here are 2 more!
And this was my first reverse lens attempt last month :)
Everyone's shots are just amazing.
And this one...
I liked the way this one turned out.
But I also really like this one
No macro lens, a Canon Ixus 100 P&S then zoomed on the computer.
The bee was helpful in staying in more or less the same place!!
In the meantime, here is one of my efforts at macro using a normal lens and then zooming in post editing.
(taken with a Fujifilm bridge cameraS800/S5800)
@shirljess I have a Canon, but mine is a 100mm f/2.8... LOVE it!
You're going to need to experiment with your camera settings and surroundings until you figure out what it takes to properly expose the shot you want.
First, get as much light as possible on your subject. You don't want to use the flash if you can avoid it. Put the subject by a window with blindingly bright sunlight. Aim flashlights at it. Put it in the middle of lamps. Light a fire. Do whatever you can to make it BRIGHT because this will help A LOT.
Next, try turning your ISO as high as it will go. Having a high ISO means your camera's sensor will react to light faster, meaning your shutter won't have to be open so long to get a proper exposure.
Then, start experimenting with your shutter speeds. Start around 1/10 (or .10 seconds on Nikon), and slowly make your way toward a faster shutter speed. This will be the challenge, because you now have multiple factors to pay attention to:
1. You want a sharp picture, so you'll probably want your shutter speed to be around 1/60 to 1/100 of a second (that's around .016 to .01 in Nikon-talk). How
2. If your picture is blown out/too bright at 1/60 to 1/100 shutter speed, now is the time to start dropping your ISO. Ideally, you can get a nice sharp shot with minimal noise with ISO 800 an below.
3. You still have to focus. When shooting reverse lens -- especially without a proper lens mount -- this becomes is often the most challenging part. A lot of people don't realize how close you need to get to the subject, so don't be afraid. Get in their really close, and hope your arm muscles are in good shape, because you'll be trembling in no time.
One thing I always do when shooting reverse is find the settings first and adjusting the environment, and then worry about framing the shot. Doing all of them at once is a total pain. So, my recommendation is that you pick camera settings based as the above, get fairly close to your subject, and snap a shot.
Is it completely black? Then add more light, or change your settings (increase ISO, lengthen shutter speed).
Can you kind of make out what you were shooting? Then you're on the right track. Keep going.
Let's see what you can do, greenhorn :)
water drops on a web
I'm not quite sure how to include a pic as part of reply :(
this is my one. I like the simplicity of the colours.
dar
dar
dar
I love this one :)
This is probably my favorite macro photo I've taken. I bought some cheap macro filters and love them and use them a lot.
This one was hard... because every time I took a breath, my subject moved! Haha.
I really love hibiscuses; they remind me of my mom, because they are her favorite type of flower. I printed this photo, and I gave it to her as a gift --it was the first time I have ever done that. She really loved it, and it made me smile. (I used a macro lens, and I liked how I was able to capture most of the flower with focus on the stamen.)
And they are all awesome macros!
Stick with me!