The whole idea of these challenges are to learn, practice and grow in your lighting & flash photography skills. The challenges will last approximately 3 – 4 weeks. Since the idea is to learn and grow be prepared to receive constructive suggestions and feedback from other 365 members on your photo(s) regarding the challenge(s).
I highly encourage others to feel free to provide constructive feedback and encouragement regarding the specific subject of the challenge. If you missed any previous challenges feel free to go back and try that challenge and post your picture on that thread.
Challenge 3:
Rembrandt, Split and uneven lighting - one off camera light source techniques
This challenge starts today September 20th and lasts until October 15th. I will post the images for voting. Tag the images Lighting-3
For this challenge it is important to have one speed light, a stand with needed hardware, a light modifier such as a soft box. You will also need a radio transistor that talks to the flash when used off the camera. Using a reflector along with your one flash is optional.
For this challenge imagine a clock with your model sitting in the center. You will use ONE flash off camera. You will place your light directly at the side aimed at the subject from either the nine o’clock or three o’clock position. For softer light you want the light to be very close to the subject. To change the shadow on the face try raising the light a little and see how it changes the look. Another option would be to have the light at eight o’clock or four o’clock position. This will add just a little more light on the face (not Rembrandt or split lighting) . Whatever you choose the goal is to have an uneven shadow on the face instead of an even flat lighting look. Make sure your aperture is between f4 – f8 and don’t have the shutter speed any faster than 160 (depending on your flash there may be more wiggle room before you get a dark strip across your photo because it is faster than your light flash speed). If you need a little brighter of a shot try increasing the ISO a little OR try shooting your flash in manual (M) instead of TTL You will have much more control of the look of the photo. Start with 1/8th power and then increase or decrease depending on if it is too bright or too dark. Make sure the part of the face that is suppose to be lit has enough light on it and not too dark but don’t over expose it either. Be sure you share your final image(s) here. If you also want to add one reflector to help with the look you are going for that is fine.
If you don’t have a model to use such as a friend, spouse, partner, try doing a selfie with these. It is much more difficult since you will need to mark the spot that you stand or use a chair. You will need a remote to trigger the camera OR use the timer on the camera.
If you want to use an object or pet that works too but ideal would be a person if possible. You could play with a chess set, or doll/stuffed animal or mannequin, or another object to have uneven lighting & shadow.
The example I have below is not a Rembrandt or split lighting. It is a one light source that I have the light at about eight o’clock. Under the subject is a reflector I have placed on the table he is leaning on. This just adds a little fill light on the neck. This week I was scheduled about 32 headshots so I didn’t want to move the placements of the lights for consistency of these headshots but you can see my set-up below. You can see how close the lights are from the subject. I used the soft box on the left and did not turn on the other 2 lights for the example I have below. Another example below is my replica of the girl with the pearl earing inspired photo. I also have a photo of a split lighting I used the flash setup outside for the golfer shot.
This challenge starts today September 20th and lasts until October 15th. I will post the images for voting. Tag the images Lighting-3
@myhrhelper Kathy, a couple of questions on set up. What exposure do you use for the camera before using the flash; do you set it up for exposed or do you go a number of stops underexposed? Is there a preferred aperture for portrait work?
@jnr Hi Jim, Good question. When I first started flash I always used a very basic light meter. The meter will tell you what setting you need to adjust your camera be properly exposed. You enter part of the camera information in the meter (such as ISO, and shutter speed), take a photo using the meter and it will tell you what aperture you need to change to be properly exposed. You then adjust up or down. For portraits I usually like my aperture to be between f5 - f9 so if the meter tells me I need an aperture of F16 I know my flash is set too high. I also try to remember rather than cranking out the flash to its maximum power just increase the ISO which saves flash battery as well.
Now I don't use the meter as often and will set the camera to my sweet spot such as f8 ISO 200 and shutter 160 (give or take on these settings), I will start with 1/8 power flash and then take the picture. Then I will judge if I need to increase (or decrease) the iso, change the aperture a stop or increase/decrease the flash power. It really depends on what I'm going for.
With flash it very often is take a photo and make some adjustments. I do think it is best when first starting out to use a flash meter. Also, I use manual flash rather than TTL. I feel I get more consistent results to what I want.
So most of the time in portraits I want it to be properly exposed to slightly under. I can always increase brightness postprocessing but it is much more difficult to make it look good if I over exposed it already. If I'm trying to do more of a fine art feel I would under expose but
My attempt at split lighting. Self portrait created with single flash, off camera, and normal room light. Now to go further and try Rembrandt Lighting.
@jnr Jim you did well. You for sure have split lighting on your face. Doing these as a self portrait is another element of challenge added but good to be able to get a real person rather than an object. What was your flash setting?
@myhrhelper This shot had my power set at 1/16 (GN 60 at 100 ISO). It was through a white umbrella. This was taken in my den, so the light stand was very close to my head, giving me the bright spot. I think that I need to adjust the natural light exposure up by a stop and bring the flash down by about a stop at the next try, plus choose a location where I can get more distance between the flash and myself.
I also need to set up my tablet to control everything. Fortunately Canon allows me to do all the camera and flash settings through their EOS utility and to see the downloaded result without getting up. I used my desk top computer for the shots I tried and it was a bit more cumbersome.
@jnr So typically in indoor shoots I try not to have very much ambient lighting even show. Often photographers will take a shot without any flash first to make sure there isn't any ambient light. Also, having the flash very close to the subject is very good and usually ideal. I have a small studio and the flash is close. I just try to make sure it doesn't show in my photo. The closer to the subject typically it is a bit softer - especially if you are using a modifier such as an umbrella to shoot through. I don't think the flash is harsh on your face. If you want you could just try raising the flash up a little higher and aim it towards your face. If you find it harsh you could try increasing the ISO a little more and then decrease the flash a bit and see what you get. You may want to put a curtain over the window if there is too much ambient light.
@myhrhelper I am not sure that I understand your comment. For this shot I set my exposure, without flash, to give me a dark, but not black level. This is what I thought would work for the dark side of the shot. I then set the flash level to give me the light side of the split. The blinds behind me are being lit by the flash on the side, not the ambient light.
Your comment sounds much like what I do for still life, where I set the no flash exposure to give me black. I then bring in the front fill flash to give me an exposure that I like, and then set the side fill flash to give me shadows for depth. I keep t he black background by a combination of black cloth or foam core and distance of the back to the subject.
Should I use a black background here?
@jnr no it is fine. It was my misunderstanding of what you were saying. I thought you wanted to make sure you had enough ambient light for the shot - while does work it isn't always necessary for flash so I misunderstood what you said you were trying to do. Personally I thought your shot looked good.
Hi Kathy, very very unsuccessful session. Main problem for me, to fire the flashgun on camera-flash has to be up,and fire, and it definitely added flash to the model!
As you can see from this image, we were still smiling as we threw in the towel!!
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Thank you Kathy @myhrhelper
Now I don't use the meter as often and will set the camera to my sweet spot such as f8 ISO 200 and shutter 160 (give or take on these settings), I will start with 1/8 power flash and then take the picture. Then I will judge if I need to increase (or decrease) the iso, change the aperture a stop or increase/decrease the flash power. It really depends on what I'm going for.
With flash it very often is take a photo and make some adjustments. I do think it is best when first starting out to use a flash meter. Also, I use manual flash rather than TTL. I feel I get more consistent results to what I want.
Here is a link to a video on using a flash meter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYtRMHR7lek
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5P4BUXnkfY
So most of the time in portraits I want it to be properly exposed to slightly under. I can always increase brightness postprocessing but it is much more difficult to make it look good if I over exposed it already. If I'm trying to do more of a fine art feel I would under expose but
I also need to set up my tablet to control everything. Fortunately Canon allows me to do all the camera and flash settings through their EOS utility and to see the downloaded result without getting up. I used my desk top computer for the shots I tried and it was a bit more cumbersome.
Your comment sounds much like what I do for still life, where I set the no flash exposure to give me black. I then bring in the front fill flash to give me an exposure that I like, and then set the side fill flash to give me shadows for depth. I keep t he black background by a combination of black cloth or foam core and distance of the back to the subject.
Should I use a black background here?
As you can see from this image, we were still smiling as we threw in the towel!!