28th September 2015 by emmadurnford

28th September 2015

On the move again. An early 5.45am rise today to get ready for our 10.5 hour journey on the Andean Explorer train from Cusco to Puno. We were not sure how a 10.5 hour journey would go but I have to say very well! Whatever I had yesterday seems to have gone and I felt much better - think it could have been delayed effects of altitude perhaps.

The morning started well when we found we had two forward facing seats as we had discovered a couple of days ago but on the day we were moved to be seated next to each other and the seat across the gangway remained empty for the duration of the trip so Gulliver Bear had his own seat. The chairs were on their own (not facing 2 others across a table) and I really could get used to armchairs on our own with a damask table cloth and real red rose. We were waited on hand and foot by the excellent Peru Rail staff. They could not do enough for us from arriving with complimentary pisco sours to producing Peruvian snacks, a three course lunch and then afternoon tea. There was an open observation carriage at the end of the train and a bar where dancing and music was laid on for entertainment.

That all was good but the best part of the journey was the stunning views of the Peruvian Andes. We saw snow capped peaks and glaciers. There were herds of llamas and alpacas grazing the the fields and pink flamingoes in the rivers. The bird life was numerous - shame my Mum and her friend Ian were not there as they would be able to ID them all. I did see what looked like black ibises and also a number of birds of prey.

We stopped briefly at the highest point that the trains travel in Peru - 4,319 meters and we had a wander around and looked at some local crafts and as usual rather like Mr Ben - as if from nowhere - a lady with a llama and lamb arrived and posed next to Colin. To be honest I’d rather just have got him and the sign but she was very friendly and a few ‘sols’ is only about 80p but probably worth considerably more to her. I even bought two beautiful alpacas woven scarves (and bartered in Spanish).

From here we moved on through small dusty towns where dogs run alongside the train (which was going fairly slowly) and children rush out to wave. Some of the towns close to our destination were so run down and market stalls were set up right next to the track so the driver had to pretty much continually hoot the horn - I can still hear it ringing in my ears now. Eventually we arrived at Puno in the dark and were driven to our hotel next to lake Titicaca which I have no idea what it looks like as it is pitch black!

I should just mention that Gulliver Bear (my traveling bear with his own FaceBook page) who was modeling his Peruvian poncho (and hat) as made by my Mum became the star of the trip. He was photographed by many of our fellow travelers and also the Peru Rail staff and they plan to put his photo on their FaceBook page! They even started to bring him his own petite fours and drinks. They told the chef on the train that a passenger in seat A12 had complained about the food and had demanded to see him... a entire line of staff accompanied the chef who looked really worried all the way down our carriage until he found Gulliver in seat A12. He looked so relieved and did laugh a lot but I think the other staff were very mean! We all clapped him (the chef not Gulliver) for producing such a good meal from a cramped kitchen on a moving train.
What an absolutely gorgeous picture Emma, fav, and I did so enjoy reading your description--no wonder you write as well as photograph. I laughed at the story about Gulliver! If I ever take that trip (which is unlikely) I'll take Joshua Bear with him and hope he gets a seat all to himself.
September 30th, 2015  
@tristansmum You'll have to take Joshua Bear out - Gulliver travels locally as well so Joshua could feature in Toronto as well :-)
October 2nd, 2015  
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