I spent some time at the beach watching the surfers. Some people were more experienced than others and this guy seemed to have some of the right moves and skills.
Thanks for stopping by and I hope you have a great day!
I LOVE the action capture and how the body position made me feel the weight of trying to keep balance. Reminded me of my own photo of a surfer, but it's quite a small surfer within a larger wave" http://365project.org/jyokota/365/2015-12-03